- Winemakers On Fire
- Posts
- Winemakers On Fire, Issue #15
Winemakers On Fire, Issue #15
Good day, and a warm welcome!
This week, we explore the world of Sommeliers, those indispensable connoisseurs who add unrivalled value to both the hospitality and wine industries. We have the privilege of interviewing two guests who shed light on this fascinating world: Sommelier Luke Erickson and Spencer Fondaumiere, the Chairperson of the South African Sommeliers Association.
Sommeliers, through their knowledge and experience, play an important role in elevating the dining experience and wine appreciation. This week's issue delves into the invaluable contributions they make to these industries. We also look at the unique challenges and opportunities that Sommeliers face in today's dynamic and ever-changing environment.
We are also proud to showcase Denomination Designs' role in the packaging rebranding of Markham Vineyards and its re-establishment as a Napa Valley icon.
Just some general housekeeping: You've come to the wrong spot if you're seeking doom and gloom about everything that's happening. Here, we only offer upbeat assessments and believe in embracing the future. As Kevin Kelly accurately stated, 'The future will be shaped by optimists.'
From Novice to Connoisseur: The Journey of Sommelier Luke Erickson
Becoming a Sommelier is a career that requires a love of wine and a commitment to learning about its complexities. It's important to note that the path to becoming a Sommelier requires rigorous study, practical experience, and obtaining certifications. It takes time and dedication to develop the knowledge and skills required to excel in this field.
Our guest today is Luke Erickson, who is currently working as a Sommelier at La Colombe, Constantia, one of Cape Town's most well-loved and awarded restaurants.
Michelle Moller, Winemaker Lukas Von Loggerenberg, and Luke Erickson
Luke Erickson's journey into the wine world began in the most unassuming of places: the hallowed halls of the Cellars-Hohenort hotel, a five-star gem nestled in the picturesque Constantia Valley. His initial encounter with the world of fine wines was as inexperienced as a freshly unfurled leaf, having previously worked in fast-food restaurants with boxed wine as his sole oenological reference point.
In those early days, Luke's wine knowledge was confined to the basics: sweet white, dry white, rosé, and red. In fact, he thought rosé was just a mix of sweet white and red wines, demonstrating his complete lack of knowledge.
Luke began his journey as a minibar attendant, motivated by an unwavering desire to succeed. Under the watchful eye of industry experts such as beverage manager Miguel Chan and Sommelier Vincent Moet, he embarked on a steep learning curve that would forever shape his destiny. The lessons were difficult, but they left an indelible imprint on Luke's budding passion.
As time passed, Luke was given the monumental task of organising the hotel's cellar, which marked the beginning of his transformation into a Sommelier. From there, he worked in vineyards during harvests and in restaurants in a variety of capacities, from bartender to runner, waiter, and finally Sommelier.
Luke's adventure is far from over. The world is watching to see what the future holds for him as he prepares to start a new chapter in the Turks and Caicos Islands. His story exemplifies the power of passion and perseverance, reminding us that even the most humble beginnings can lead to extraordinary journeys in the world of wine.
What inspired you to become a Sommelier?
The desire to become a Sommelier stemmed from a deep fear of making a mistake, and guests would compliment my potential Sommelier abilities to the hotel General Manager.
What, in your opinion, are the most important qualities of a Sommelier?
There is always something new to learn, so do not get stuck in the mindset that you know it all.
Business sense, because it is not just about selling now, but also about seeing the potential for future sales and developing win-win strategies that benefit the farm, restaurant, and guests.
Problem solving: as a Sommelier, you are an added service, ensuring that things run smoothly and not standing aloof because that is not my department.
Being a team player, as this is a middle management position, you must teach, lead, and collaborate with all departments, particularly chefs, regardless of how difficult they can be at times.
What is your favourite wine region, and why?
I would have to go with Constantia because that is where it all started.
How do you keep up with the latest trends and developments in the wine industry?
Learning and adapting are the only options.
This is a part of what I was saying about how you cannot stay static on an idea; you have to keep reading about what is going on around you, talk to people, and taste. This is an adapt or die industry, as evidenced by how Sauvignon Blanc was produced 20, 10, or even 5 years ago and how the wines have evolved since then.
Look at what dishes are coming out now. When I first started, lamb rack was considered classic, with no foams, smokes, or other extraneous ingredients—nothing like what dishes look and taste like today.
What is your favourite bottle of wine for less than R150?
I was recently introduced to Boschkloof Cab/Merlot, which costs slightly more than R150 but is closer to R200.
What is the most unusual wine you have ever tasted?
Definitely a white from Jura France Arbois "Chardonnay."
How do you handle difficult customers or situations?
Compassion and a smile, followed by an eye roll. I recently had a lady complain about being promised a mountain view (the sun had set nearly 2 hours earlier at this point).
Thank you for taking the time to share with us your incredible journey, Luke. We wish you all the best in your future endeavours, particularly as you set sail for the Turks and Caicos Islands. May your journey in the world of Sommelier expertise be filled with success and new horizons.
INSIGHTS TO FUEL YOUR MIND
A Conversation with Spencer Fondaumiere, Chairperson of the South African Sommeliers Association
Today’s guest is Spencer Fondaumiere, Chairperson of the South African Sommeliers Association and Founder of Somm On Call and Wineyard East Africa. Spencer will share with us his insights into the work of the association, the role of sommeliers in South Africa, and the industry's challenges and opportunities.
What is the role of the South African Sommeliers Association in promoting and supporting Sommeliers in South Africa?
Our mission is to advance wine service in the country. We are the only local entity with the mandate and affiliation, through our association with the ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale), to certify sommeliers. We also support the court of master sommeliers through our partners Chenin Noir.
Through certifications, we are able to set the standard and create opportunities for our members to advance their careers. We now offer certifications all the way from a very basic introduction to Sommelierie to the prestigious ASI Diploma. In addition to that, we are developing our mentorship programmes to go beyond just giving our members a certification to equip them for working in the industry.
Finally, we organise the best Sommelier and young Sommelier competitions, where our members can test their skills against each other and represent South Africa internationally at the highest level.
How does the association work to educate and train Sommeliers in South Africa?
We work closely with our approved service providers, The Sommeliers Academy and the Apeirogon Youth Development Academy, who provide the educational and training aspects, while SASA organises and executes the Sommelier exams. SASA creates the framework and parameters that our partners use and, in turn, develops the certification exams based on the same.
We have worked to develop the framework to a point where any potential partners can easily plug into the system, provided they have the ability and resources. Our goal is to have a diverse range of educational partners across the country to help grow the trade.
What qualifications or certifications are required to become a Sommelier in South Africa?
There are none; sommelierie is something that can be learned on the job through experience, or one can go the self taught way. It is similar to being a chef in that way. However, especially in South Africa, where exposure to the global world of wine is limited, it is hugely beneficial to get a certification. A certification has the additional benefit of allowing you to advance your career outside of South Africa and providing you with expertise beyond just your work environment. We would love to have more certified sommeliers than people working in Sommelier positions. Certifications also allow for an alignment of standards.
If one were to go the route of being certified, our Sommelier certifications start at the junior Sommelier certification, then the ASI certificate level 2, and finally the ASI diploma. Alternatively, they can go through the Court of Master Sommeliers certified exams. Both courses have an introduction to Sommelier, which is not a Sommelier certification but an acknowledgement of starting the first step of the journey.
How does the association support the professional development and career advancement of Sommeliers?
We have partnerships with recruitment companies that provide employment opportunities and our aforementioned mentorship programmes.
What initiatives or programmes does the association have in place to promote the appreciation and understanding of wine among the South African public?
At this point, our primary focus is on our members. We do, however, hold masterclasses once a quarter in which we select provocative and thought-provoking conversations and tastings presented by industry leaders.
How does the association collaborate with restaurants and wine producers to enhance the dining experience and promote local wines?
Sommelierie, as we see it, is the bridge that unites the hospitality and wine industries. We have key partners in both industries. South Africa is a wine-producing country, and we believe that should be reflected in the dining experience. Our certified members are all ambassadors of the South African wine industry. They are able to show, educate, and serve their guests the very best of what we have to offer.
In recent times, we have collaborated with restaurants to have their entire teams trained and certified, and we have had solid, unwavering support from wine routes, wine associations, and individual wineries.
What are some of the challenges and opportunities for Sommeliers in South Africa's wine industry?
The biggest challenge is quite simply that the general hospitality industry does not buy into the value of having a full-time Sommelier on the floor. For that reason, it is very difficult for one to make a comfortable living as a Sommelier. Sommelierie is a specialised profession that requires loads of training and the retention of tremendous knowledge. Unfortunately, that does not translate into equitable remuneration.
For that reason, a lot of Sommeliers seek work outside of the country or pivot their careers. Pivoting is probably the greatest opportunity, as with the broad knowledge acquired in becoming a Sommelier and the work experience gained, there are plenty of opportunities outside of the hospitality industry and in the commercial wine space in sales and marketing, as brand ambassadors, as well as in retail, where the fine wine space is growing quite quickly.
What are the future plans and goals of the South African Sommeliers Association?
We want to further grow our relevance in the industry. We want to directly impact people's lives and offer real-life-changing prospects. Hospitality is the second biggest employer in the country. We are a direct pipeline to employment. We upskill and certify our members to be able to take advantage of better opportunities. We currently have and are working hard at developing the pipeline to more employment opportunities.
Our ambition is to be a full circle solution where people with no skills or experience can sign up as members, study, get certified, get mentored, and get a job.
We want every establishment that is serious about their hospitality offering to have a certified Sommelier on their staff.
Finally, we want to maintain our fine reputation in the global Sommelier world and continue to produce world class Sommeliers at the highest level
How can aspiring Sommeliers get involved with the association and benefit from its resources and support?
Simply sign up for membership. Once signed up, you are connected to our network, and you will be kept up to date with all developments, including employment and mentorship opportunities.
Thank you, Spencer. We greatly appreciate your willingness to share your insights into the vital work of the association and the pivotal role that Sommeliers play in South Africa.
Reviving the Legacy: Exploring Denomination Designs Markham Vineyards Rebrand
The winery at Markham Vineyards was built in Napa Valley in 1874. The winery has operated continuously since its founding, making it the fourth oldest winery in Napa County. In 1933, the end of prohibition was celebrated with the first legal glass of wine poured at Markham’s cellar door. In the late 1970s, Bruce Markham bought the winery and began the story of Markham today.
The Challenge
In a nutshell, despite an incredible wine heritage and magnificent Napa vineyards, Markham had, in recent years, begun to lose resonance with new consumers due to low brand awareness. Another issue was that their current packaging was not distinctive or unique enough to get pull-through on the shelf, and the brand looked generic and mass-market.
Denomination Designs task was to inject serious personality and winemaking cues back into the brand, reflecting its heritage and unique place in Napa’s history.
The Execution
Bruce Markham’s original labels featured a tiny cannoneer; local legend has it that he would signal the start of every vintage by firing a miniature cannon from the winery. A bronze sculpture of the cannoneer still sits in the tasting room: this, along with the label, meant we had found the unique icon that we felt Markham needed.
The new packaging heroes the cannoneer, redrawn carefully to match the original and proudly positioned above the Markham branding. We also utilised the distinctive position of the vintage in the top right hand corner of the original label, using it as a feature to introduce Markham’s chief winemaker, Kimberlee Nicholls.
All of Markham’s wines now carry their sustainably made messaging, a key part of their winemaking philosophy. The brand's core colours of cream and red are consistent throughout the tiers, but the elements and messaging can change as the wines increase in price. On the limited edition, single vineyard, or small parcel wines, the iconic cannoneer is accompanied by initials to indicate the names of the wines in the same way they are chalked on the barrel by Kimberlee and her team. Details such as the exact date of harvest, barrel allotments, and Kim’s signature all add to the level of detail and premiumness of this tier.
Markham’s icon wine The Character is branded simply with the cannoneer icon. The front is a statement of confidence and premiumness, while the back carries detailed information with the addition of a hand-signed, hand-applied label.
The Result
The new branding for Markham allows for each of the wine tiers to play within different spaces: the core for a strong retail presence, and then the higher tiers for on-premise and winery release only. The wines are all individual yet remain strongly united by two powerful visual assets: colour and the cannoneer icon.
"The Markham Trio: Unveiling Retail, Limited Edition, and the Iconic 'The Character'"
We are grateful to Rowena Curlewis, CEO of Denomination Design, for giving us the opportunity to feature their outstanding work.
Thanks for reading; we wouldn’t be where we are today without your support!
It takes me between 8 and 12 hours to write and prepare each issue. If I had more time, I would have written a shorter newsletter.
LET’S BE FRIENDS: Follow me on LinkedIn. Let’s connect.
If you enjoyed this newsletter, please consider sharing it with your friends. I work hard to create quality content consistently, and every new subscriber helps. This link will take you to the signup page.
I’m always on the lookout for new guests for your newsletter, so if you’ve got someone you’d like me to interview, email me and let me know, and I’ll see if it’s a good fit. Participating is absolutely FREE! - Yes, you read that right.
Winemakers On Fire is written by Mike Carter and published every Sunday. My vision is to be recognised for giving more than taking and to use my talents and skills to positively impact others. Albert Einstein put it succinctly: "Try not to become a man of success, but rather try to become a man of value."