Winemakers On Fire, Issue #34

Good day, and a warm welcome!

This week's exclusive interview features Master Vinter PJ Geyer of Thamnus Wines. In the pastoral vineyards of South Africa's Cape South Coast, PJ skillfully balances his roles as a vintner, farmer, and champion for this burgeoning wine region. 

When a master like PJ Geyer speaks, oenophiles listen. His profound perspectives encompass everything from the allure of Pinot Noir to harnessing sheep amongst the vines. Read on as he muses over what drives his hospitable ethos, achieving balance across enterprises, and the disruptive potential of the Cape South Coast. 

Beyond the boundary-pushing winemaking, PJ’s grounded wisdom and passion radiate from every word. Let him captivate you, as he has critics like Tim Akin MW, who called Thamnus' new releases nothing short of "showstoppers." Join us in toasting this rising star's cellar and mission to propel the Cape South Coast onto the global wine stage.

Also this week, wine label designer John Pace recounts the story behind his recent collaboration with Thamnus Wines. After connecting with passionate winemaker PJ Geyer, John embarked on a rewarding design process, using a rare Overberg protea rose as inspiration. His article provides an inside look into the creative journey to capture Thamnus Wines' vision on their labels.

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Master Vintner PJ Geyer on Winemaking, Sheep Farming and Promoting the Cape South Coast Terroir

PJ Geyer is a renowned winemaker, viticulturist, and sheep farmer at Thamnus Wines in South Africa's Cape South Coast region. In this exclusive interview, he discusses his multifaceted roles on the estate, his philosophy around Chardonnay and Pinot Noir winemaking, and the future of the Cape South Coast wine region.

PJ shares insights into Thamnus Wines' regenerative agriculture programme using sheep in the vineyards, what motivates his new accommodation hospitality venture, and the mission behind the Cape South Coasters group he co-founded to promote the region. With praise from critics like Tim Akin MW already calling Thamnus' maiden Chardonnay a "showstopper," PJ reflects on the potential for showcasing more fine wines with unique terroir from this emerging region in the years ahead.

What initially drew you to winemaking and viticulture? Was there a specific moment or wine that sparked your interest?

So many aspects of winemaking and viticulture are intriguing. It’s hard to choose one, but the combination of math, chemistry, art, and farming are the most outstanding points for me. My first wine was made in my mother’s fridge. It exploded on me, and I knew then and there that this was for me.

The farm uses sheep in the vineyard as part of a regenerative agriculture programme. Can you explain more about this technique and what benefits you see? 

We plant cover crops that have regrowth, like oats. This keeps living roots in the soil, reducing soil erosion, increasing water retention, and improving soil health and biodiversity. The result is minimal intervention and exceptionally healthy vines.

The sheep graze between the vineyards during end-winter (just before budding) and naturally fertilise our vines with manure. We do lose the cover crop biomass, but we have plenty of straw bales each year that we roll down between the vines for water retention. Aesthetically, it looks beautiful to see the sheep in the vines.

How do you balance your roles as a winemaker, viticulturist, and sheep farmer? What does a typical day look like for you?

You should shadow me to have a clear answer and bring plenty of energy drinks. Early in my career, I realised the key to success is planning, planning, and some more planning.

Let’s start at the end of my day. At 16:00, I close all books, emails, WhatsApp's, etc., and I drive through the farm to inspect the progress and quality thereof. Back in the office, I plan for the next day. I go home and spend the rest with my lovely family.

I arrive on the farm between 06:45 and 07:00 to meet with my foreman over a cup of coffee. We run through the previous day and plan the day ahead. I have four teams of two personnel each. Each team is responsible for their department: vines, camps, medication and feeding of sheep, and general. We are a small but passionate team with a deep appreciation for what we do, which we believe shines through in all our farming activities.

Every morning, we have a 15-minute meeting to discuss and plan the day’s work. I then start with email, plan cellar work, and help with any legal paperwork where needed. When my wine needs attention, I try to get to the cellar at around 10:00, finish up, and get back to farming. Every Friday, I will assess what we achieved and plan the next goal for the following week.

Thamnus Wines focuses solely on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Why did you choose to specialise in these two Burgundian varieties? 

If you have a focus, you can specialise. If you can specialise, you can perfect. The farm was bought with these two cultivars, but I am convinced that these were the best choices if terroir in full is considered. 

Tim Akin, MW, gave the maiden release of the Thamnus Chardonnay 2021 95 points and called it a showstopper! What was your reaction when you heard this?

It is always nice to have a pat on the back from a world-renowned expert, and the best part is that we now know that we are on to something.

How would you characterise the terroir and wine style of Thamnus Wines compared to other Overberg and South African regions?

We are 3 degrees cooler in winter and 3 degrees warmer in summer than neighbouring farms down the valley. We have north-facing slopes, which gives us 11 hours more sunlight. This helps the grapes to ripen faster, which in turn protects the natural acidity from dropping while at optimum sugar levels. The result is a well-balanced, elegant wine with good structure and soft but strong tannin levels.

The manor house on the property is being restored for an accommodation offering; what motivated this new hospitality venture?

We all know how those poor city folks need a breakaway from the rat race. Why not do it on a quiet, gorgeous farm with beautiful landscapes while enjoying a glass of wine and relaxing with a good book? The only sounds you will hear on the farm are those of sheep and birds. 

Thamnus Wines is a founding member of the Cape South Coasters group. What is the purpose and mission behind this new organisation? 

Many voices are louder than one. We are all winemakers who see the potential of Cape South Coast grapes and the benefits of this cool climate. We are comrades and friends.

How do you see the Cape South Coast wine region developing over the next 5–10 years in terms of wine styles, terroir understanding, and recognition? What role will groups like the Cape South Coasters play?

We are lucky to live in this beautiful country, as we have so many different regions, each unique in its ability to create a brilliant wine. On the Cape South Coast, one can drive for 20 minutes and see a completely different landscape. Although smaller wards play a role for some, show me a district, and you will find a gem.

Hence the name; we are here to promote and be proud of our styles. If terroir is the God-given natural instruments laid before us, then style is the harmony we create. The number of variables from which to draw the ‘notes’ to be played is tremendous, which is why this profession is an art form that I love.

Thank you, PJ, for the opportunity to learn more about your work at Thamnus Wines. It was a true privilege to gain insights into your innovative approaches to winemaking and viticulture, as well as your deep commitment to the land and the Cape South Coast region.

In My Own Words: Crafting Wine Labels Rooted in Passion

As a wine label designer, I'm always thrilled when winemakers reach out after seeing my work. That's exactly what happened with PJ Geyer of Thamnus Wines in the Overberg region of South Africa. After reading an article about my design process, PJ gave me a call, his passion for winemaking evident even over the phone. I decided I had to make the trip to meet him and see the vineyards for myself.

What resulted was a rewarding collaboration yielding brand identity, packaging, and labels rooted in PJ's vision and the rare protea rose that lends its name to Thamnus Wines. In this article, I'll recount the Thamnus wine label design process from start to finish in my own words.

PJ Geyer, a winemaker from the Overberg, called me after reading an article about me in WineMag. I love nothing more than that little blank canvas known as a wine label, and I believe he read it.

PJ has a busy mind, and in talking to him on the phone, you could hear he was just full of passion. It was infectious, so I decided to drive out to the farm and meet him. We drove around some unkempt tracks, up to the highest point of the land, to view the property and where PJ would be planting next.

The farm was far from complete; there was still much to do, but the vineyards looked great, and the olive grove was bearing olives.

PJ had invited me to stay for a braai, and over some fine lamb chops, we tasted the fruits of his labour. I loved both the Chardonnay and the Pinot; they were just superb.

Listening to PJ over lunch was fascinating, as he has had a great career making wine all over the world, including for the Moueix family. Added to the winemaking was a large flock of sheep, and he tells me that he now has to learn to be a farmer as well!

I drove home with just two fine samples of wine, chomping at the bit to start designing the wine label.

The name Thamnus refers to a rare protea rose found only in the Overberg. This became the name, and the owner, who has a passion for painting, supplied a beautiful swirl of brush strokes, creating the rose.

The end result is a collaboration between PJ, the owner, and myself. This fantastic project resulted in additional packaging, brand identity, and a new website, which is set to launch soon.

We'd like to thank John Pace for generously sharing the inside story of his work with Thamnus Wines. It's fascinating to get an insider's perspective on the creative process behind these beautiful wine labels. We appreciate you taking the time to tell your story!

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