Winemakers On Fire, Issue #38

Good day, and a warm welcome!

Get ready to embark on a journey to the breathtaking Paarl Winelands of South Africa, where Brookdale Estate is making waves in the wine industry. Discover how owner Tim Rudd and winemaker Kiara Scott Farmer are bringing together Mediterranean varietals, unusual winemaking techniques, and a respect for heritage vines to create exceptional wines. In this week’s newsletter, we'll delve into Kiara's journey, the estate's unique approach, and the exciting developments that are shaping the future of Brookdale Estate and the South African wine industry. Don't miss out on this fascinating story; read on to learn more!

In Case You Missed It

The State of Wine: Has the Global Industry Reached Peak Performance, Or Are the Best Vintages Yet to Come?

Here are a few quick takeaways from last week's Uncorking Secrets deep dive:

  1. Despite a decline in global wine consumption since 2007, the industry can still achieve growth by adopting innovative strategies that prioritise customers over products. By avoiding marketing myopia and focusing on customer needs and preferences, wine brands can tap into new opportunities for success.

  2. To stand out in a competitive market, wine brands can differentiate themselves by offering unique experiences that go beyond the product, fostering customer loyalty through compelling storytelling and memorable encounters.

  3. Wineries that focus solely on production may struggle to stay relevant. By embracing creativity, agility, and customer-centricity, and prioritising long-term growth over short-term gains, they can unlock new opportunities for success.

We hope you enjoyed this glimpse into our Uncorking Secrets deep dive. If you're curious to learn more about The State of Wine, we invite you to explore last week's full article. It offers an in-depth look at the subject, complete with fascinating insights and stories. Feel free to click this link if you'd like to delve deeper and learn more.

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Kiara Scott Farmer: Fostering Curiosity and Innovation for the Future of Paarl’s Iconic Brookdale Estate

Nestled in the Paarl Winelands of South Africa, Brookdale Estate exemplifies the power of vision, innovation, and heritage. Once an overgrown and under-used area of land, it has been transformed by the Rudd family into a world-class country estate that promotes curiosity, exploration, and the pursuit of new paths. At the heart of this estate lies a passion for crafting unique wine blends using Mediterranean varietals and unusual winemaking techniques, all under the guidance of owner Tim Rudd and winemaker Kiara Scott Farmer.

Kiara, a rising star in South Africa's wine industry, has been instrumental in shaping Brookdale Estate's success. Born in 1993 and hailing from Cape Town's Cape Flats area, Kiara's journey into winemaking began with her studies at the Elsenburg Agricultural Training Institute in Viticulture and Oenology. She later honed her skills through the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme, ultimately joining Brookdale Estate to help realise Tim Rudd's vision.

One of Brookdale's most notable achievements is its membership in South Africa's Old Vine Project, which celebrates the country's heritage vines. The estate's single block of trellised Chenin Blanc, planted in 1985, is a shining example of Paarl's terroir and wine-producing capabilities. This commitment to older vines not only highlights Brookdale's dedication to quality but it also reflects South Africa's rich winemaking history.

As Kiara Scott Farmer's innovative spirit and Brookdale Estate's unique approach continue to gain recognition on both the local and international stages, they are undoubtedly making a significant impact on the South African wine industry. By embracing unconventional winemaking techniques, championing older vines, and pushing the boundaries of what's possible, Brookdale Estate is contributing to the diverse and dynamic landscape of South African wine. Join us as we explore Kiara's journey and the exciting developments at Brookdale Estate that are helping to shape the future of this vibrant industry.

You collaborated closely with renowned winemaker Duncan Savage when he was a consulting winemaker at Brookdale. What key things did you learn that have helped shape your winemaking philosophy and approach? 

The main thing I learned from Duncan is definitely that wines are made in the vineyard. He spends a lot of time in his vineyards, understanding them and working in them. So that is something that I have definitely taken from him—to be in the vineyards more and understand what is happening there. It makes winemaking easier.

You gained hands-on experience during harvests in the Rhone Valley, Sancerre, and Sonoma. How did those international experiences influence or inspire your winemaking? 

The French winemakers and their approach to wine greatly impressed me. I tasted with them and saw how they understood their terroir, and that has always stayed with me. Understanding your own terroir is key to producing a good wine, as the two go hand in hand.

What was the most valuable part of being selected for the prestigious Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme? 

The Cape Winemakers Guild Protégé Programme was a fantastic experience. Being able to network with such great winemakers and be able to taste the most amazing wines alongside them was really unbelievable. It is very important to share knowledge and skills in our industry, and I really was able to benefit from the expertise surrounding me.

The Brookdale “Sixteen” Story

Established in 2018, the Brookdale Sixteen vineyard defies conventional practices by intermixing grape varieties rather than planting them in neat, organised rows. This unconventional approach prioritises the authentic expression of terroir over mainstream varietal popularity and harvesting efficiency.

Among the 16 varieties are Chenin Blanc, as well as the less typical South African grapes Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, and Verdelho. By blending these unique varietals, Brookdale Estate crafts a wine that reflects the region's diverse microclimates and soil profiles, offering a departure from more common South African wine offerings.

The labour-intensive harvesting process requires multiple trips through the vineyard, as each variety ripens at its own pace. This dedication to maximising each grape's potential results in a complex, harmonious wine with a depth of flavour reflecting the diverse range of varieties.

In line with Brookdale Estate's "Stay Curious" motto, the specific composition of The Sixteen blend remains a well-kept secret. Wine enthusiasts are invited to explore the flavours and nuances of this exceptional wine without preconceived notions, fostering an engaging tasting experience that sparks curiosity and wonder.

The Brookdale Sixteen is a shining example of Brookdale Estate's commitment to innovation and the art of winemaking. This rare and intriguing South African field blend honours the region's rich viticultural history while pushing boundaries, offering a truly unique and unforgettable wine experience.

As one of the few female head winemakers in South Africa, what unique perspective or talents do you think you bring to winemaking? 

Perhaps I pay more attention to detail, am more nurturing, and am gentler sometimes. (Although male winemakers could also bring these traits.) I like to think I can be a good example to young girls who are perhaps interested in winemaking. It can be done, and it can be done well.

Brookdale Chenin Blanc 2017 really put the estate on the map. What key decisions went into crafting such a special wine?  

At that time, we really wanted to let the vineyard shine. It was our first vintage, and we only produced 1,000 litres, so we aimed to keep it as simple as possible to let the terroir show through as best we could. 

You’ve said, “Great wines are made in the vineyard.” What specific vineyard practices or focus areas are most important to you in nurturing quality grapes?

I think that when working in the vineyard, it is important to be on top of things and to know when certain things have to happen. For example, it is important to know that suckering is happening at the right time or that we are pruning correctly. Essentially, ensuring that all the vineyard practices are executed well and at the right time. Thankfully, we have a great team to assist us in the vineyards. 

The picturesque Brookdale Estate in Paarl, South Africa.

The Brookdale property had to be extensively replanted and rehabbed. What excites you about shaping the vineyards and grape varietals moving forward? 

It is exciting to be a young winemaker at a new and young estate. It has been amazing to have seen the vineyards being planted and to have watched them grow, as I have been learning myself. The varietals that we have planted here are definitely not your typical varieties, and that is also what makes it exciting. We are, in essence, farming for the future. It will be interesting to see how these varieties continue to thrive in Paarl and what wines we end up with: the possibilities are endless.

With each vintage, you take an intuitive, vintage-specific approach rather than following a formula. What signals or indicators help guide your winemaking decisions each harvest?

Weather patterns are a big factor, and keeping a close eye on how the vineyard reacts to what Mother Nature does. We need to be flexible and adaptable to the elements, and so we are continuously tasting and testing in order to create the best possible wine we can for the vintage we are faced with. 

Essential Insights

Discover Kiara Scott Farmer’s core principles:

1. Understanding terroir is crucial for producing quality wines. Kiara learned from renowned winemakers the importance of deeply understanding the unique terroir and vineyard conditions. This allows winemakers to nurture grapes that best express the character of the land, shaping decisions in the vineyard and winery. Her international experiences reinforced this connection between wine and its sense of place.

2. Hands-on vineyard management is essential. One of Kiara's key takeaways from Duncan Savage was the importance of being immersed in the vineyards, closely monitoring conditions, and ensuring practices like pruning and suckering happen at optimal times. This hands-on approach allows winemakers to respond nimbly to vintage variations and vineyard needs.

3. An exploratory, open-minded approach allows creativity to flourish. Rather than following a rigid formula, Kiara takes an intuitive, vintage-specific approach each year, guided by weather patterns, grape maturity, and continual tasting. This flexible mindset, combined with planting lesser-known varietals at Brookdale, creates exciting possibilities for crafting distinctive, terroir-driven wines.

Thank you, Kiara. We appreciate you sharing your thoughts, wisdom, and experiences with us. We wish you and Tim Rudd nothing but success in the future.

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  • Mike Carter is the driving force behind Winemakers On Fire, a weekly newsletter that is published every Tuesday, while Uncorking Secrets, a biweekly deep dive, is published every other Friday. My vision is to be recognised for giving more than taking and to use my talents and skills to positively impact others. Albert Einstein put it succinctly: "Try not to become a man of success, but rather try to become a man of value."