Winemakers On Fire, Issue #46

Good day, and a warm welcome!

Welcome to this week’s edition of Winemakers On Fire, your trusted source for exploring the world of wine. Each week, we spotlight the stories behind the passionate winemakers shaping the industry.

In this issue, we're thrilled to feature Kaapzicht, a family-owned winery with a rich 75-year history. Discover how this estate transformed from producing bulk wine to crafting distinguished vintages under its own brand. We'll explore the strategies and dedication that have propelled its success, providing valuable insights for wine enthusiasts and industry professionals alike.

So, pour yourself a glass of your favourite wine and join us in raising a toast to the remarkable individuals who continue to inspire and drive innovation in the world of winemaking. Cheers to their success!

In Case You Missed It

The State of Wine: Has the Global Industry Reached Peak Performance, or Are the Best Vintages Yet to Come?

The global wine industry faces a controversial question: has it reached its peak in terms of growth? Despite being a historically resilient sector, global wine consumption has been dropping gradually since 2007, and the trend is accelerating. This negative trend begs the question: Is the wine industry's growth potential starting to wane, and if so, what strategies can be implemented to reinvigorate the market? 

To delve deeper into the global wine industry's growth challenges and potential strategies for revitalization, be sure to read our previous article, "The State of Wine: Has the Global Industry Reached Peak Performance or Are the Best Vintages Yet to Come?" This comprehensive deep dive examines the factors impacting the industry and explores possible solutions to reinvigorate the market.

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Kaapzicht's 75-Year Journey: How Embracing Change and Fostering Community Guided a Family Winery Towards Remarkable Success.

Ever wondered what makes a truly exceptional bottle of wine? The answer lies not just in the label but in the history, flavours, and dedication of the people behind it. Let's explore the captivating story of Kaapzicht, a family-owned winery with a rich 75-year history.

In this article, we'll take you through Kaapzicht's journey, from its humble beginnings in 1946 to its transformation into a distinguished producer of fine vintages under its own brand. Discover how embracing change, focusing on quality, and fostering a strong sense of community have contributed to the estate's success. Learn how these strategies can inspire and guide anyone looking to build a thriving venture, whether in the wine industry or elsewhere.

Join us as we uncover the story of Kaapzicht and its passionate winemaker, Danie Steytler. See how this remarkable estate, with its enduring legacy, exemplifies the power of passion, collaboration, and forward-thinking approaches to create a prosperous future.

Danie, the Steytler family has been making wine at Kaapzicht for over 75 years now. How has winemaking changed over the generations here? 

A significant transformation has occurred over the years. The most notable change was transitioning from solely producing bulk wine to creating and marketing our own distinct brand. During the initial 38 years (1946–1984), we focused on bulk wine production, and revenue was determined by the tonnage produced; therefore, higher volume equated to higher income. Once we established the Kaapzicht brand and began bottling our wines in 1984 (now a 40-year legacy), our focus shifted from quantity to prioritising quality.

Throughout the decades, numerous advancements have taken place in the wine cellar, and technology has drastically improved. In the 1980s, the industry-wide practice of cooling grapes and fermenting juice emerged, significantly elevating the quality of wine. Prior to this innovation, my grandfather relied on the traditional method of pumping hot juice over the cool concrete floors - thankfully, I haven't had the opportunity to taste this earlier version!

While old de-stemmers and the Vaseline press were sufficient in their time, modern equipment has revolutionised the winemaking process. Today's de-stemmers provide the cleanest fruit after sorting, and the press actions have evolved from mechanical to gentler processes, resulting in significantly higher-quality wine.

The 1947 Chenin Blanc vineyard holds a special place in your family and is deeply significant for the estate. Could you share the background story of this vineyard and what sets it apart?

In 1947, my great-grandfather planted the Chenin Blanc vineyard (then known as "Groot Steen"), which spans just over 6 hectares. This endeavour took place during a time when tractors were not yet available; thus, all work was carried out using horse-drawn ploughs or manual labour. For me, the most remarkable aspect is the connection this vineyard creates between me and the first Steytler at Kaapzicht. It's a profound and humbling experience to know that each of the four generations has had the privilege to craft wine from this vineyard, and I am honoured to continue upholding this cherished tradition.

You are a fervent advocate for Bottelary as a distinctive terroir and its wines. What makes this region so unique to you, and why do you believe it merits more recognition?

Bottelary holds a special place in my heart, as it is my home. However, if you ask farmers from other regions like the Swartland or Elgin, they would similarly assert that their own areas are special. The Bottelary soils have been cultivating vines for hundreds of years, making it a historically significant wine-growing region. In fact, during the early settlement period, Bottelary served as a stopover point for travellers making the two-day horseback journey to Stellenbosch, earning its nickname as the "spens" or pantry of the ship. These hills provided shelter and sustenance to the passing settlers, cementing Bottelary's role as a crucial hub. Today, it remains home to numerous family-owned farms, which infuse the region with a unique sense of soul and character.

Pinotage is widely recognised as South Africa's signature grape variety. How do you highlight the diverse expressions of Pinotage at Kaapzicht?

We believe that Pinotage thrives in our Bottelary terroir, characterised by granitic soils and warm exposures, resulting in dark, lavish, and potent Pinotages. When combined with old bush vines and dryland farming techniques, our wines showcase remarkable concentration and complexity, exemplified by our Rooiland and Steytler Pinotages. Alongside these, we also cultivate vineyards in cooler sites, situated a mere 18 kilometres from False Bay and at an altitude of 300 metres with a southeast orientation. These conditions yield more refined and taut wines, characterised by elegance and tension. Our Skraalhans Pinotage, for instance, reflects the traits of its parent grapes, Cinsaut and Pinot Noir. Both expressions are exquisite, and we leave it up to individual preferences to decide which style is more appealing.

You have worked at various wineries abroad as well. How have those experiences impacted your winemaking approach at Kaapzicht?

Travelling and working at different wineries across the globe has exposed me to the remarkable breadth and diversity of the wine world, which encompasses a vast range of cultures, cuisines, and traditions. Each experience offers valuable insights that can be incorporated into my own winemaking journey back home at Kaapzicht. Sometimes, it's as simple as adopting a tradition, such as sharing a meal and a bottle of wine with the team during harvest on a Friday. Other times, it may involve embracing the stringent health and safety standards found in the New World to ensure a safe working environment. Occasionally, it's the perspective and outlook of another winemaker that can leave a lasting impression.

Learning opportunities are not limited to international experiences; there's a wealth of knowledge to gain from the talented winemakers in South Africa as well. Every encounter and exchange has contributed to shaping the winemaker I am today and continues to influence my approach to crafting wines at Kaapzicht.

You mentioned transitioning towards organic and regenerative viticulture practices at Kaapzicht. Could you explain this approach and its significance?

Our goal is to cultivate a healthier environment through improved farming practices, focusing on nurturing our soils and vines. The use of chemicals can be detrimental to the terroir and potentially harmful to the land and people in the long run. By adopting regenerative farming techniques (a relatively new endeavour for Kaapzicht), we aim to reduce our reliance on synthetic chemicals. The primary principle behind regenerative farming is to promote soil health, which in turn leads to healthier and more resilient vines. Ultimately, these vines produce higher quality grapes, resulting in exceptional wines.

In essence, the concept is similar to maintaining good health in humans – if you're healthy, you're less likely to need medicine or chemicals. However, implementing this approach can be challenging, as weeds and diseases are ubiquitous. Failure to manage these issues effectively can lead to crop loss and, consequently, a shortage of grapes for winemaking.

As part of our regenerative efforts, we have reintroduced cattle to the farm. They play a vital role in managing weeds and contribute to maintaining the overall health of the ecosystem. Additionally, there's a personal benefit: I now have a more sustainable and local source of steak!

The newly designed bottle labels symbolise the handover of Kaapzicht to the next generation. What's your vision for the estate's future?

My current priority is ensuring financial stability. Additionally, I aim to pass on the estate to future generations in better condition than when it was entrusted to me, while positively impacting the lives of those around me. I have numerous plans for the estate, but limited resources hinder their rapid implementation. However, I'm committed to making gradual progress and with another 20 years or so ahead of me, I'm optimistic about the future of Kaapzicht.

At Kaapzicht, family and people are fundamental to your philosophy. How do you cultivate that sense of community among your team?

I recognised early on that creating exceptional wine is a collaborative effort, spanning an entire year of work in the vineyard and often another two in the cellar before we have a product to sell (which, incidentally, can be the most challenging part due to the abundance of outstanding wines available).

Fortunately, many of our workers have been part of the Kaapzicht family for two or three generations. We have grown together and collectively understand that producing quality wine requires considerable effort. Each member of our team takes pride in their contributions, no matter how small, because we know that every bit of additional effort we put in today will result in a better-tasting wine tomorrow.

Our strong bonds and shared commitment to excellence foster a sense of kinship, ensuring that even during occasional differences of opinion, our love for what we do and the support we provide one another keep us united as a family.

Essential Insights

Here are three key takeaways from our interview with Danie, focusing on the main ideas and concepts we covered:

1. Embracing Change: Kaapzicht's evolution from producing bulk wine to creating its own brand emphasises the importance of embracing change. By shifting focus from quantity to quality, the estate elevated its status and established a strong reputation. This transformation demonstrates that adapting to new strategies can lead to long-term success.

2. Lifelong Learning: Danie's commitment to learning from both local and international experiences highlights the value of continuous personal growth. His approach to implementing lessons from various wineries showcases how staying curious and open-minded can enhance one's skills and help create unique results.

3. Community and Collaboration: The emphasis on family and teamwork at Kaapzicht illustrates the significance of fostering a sense of community. By valuing each team member's contributions and promoting a supportive environment, the estate ensures that everyone is invested in producing the best possible product. This principle serves as a reminder that collaboration can elevate outcomes in any endeavour.

Thank you, Danie, for allowing us to delve into the history and transformation of Kaapzicht, offering valuable insights into the world of winemaking. It’s been an honour to have had the opportunity to learn from your experiences and celebrate the success of your family's legacy.

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