Winemakers On Fire, Issue #53

Hello, fellow wine lovers!

In the sun-drenched vineyards of Stellenbosch, where centuries-old farms dot the landscape and the Helderberg mountain casts its majestic shadow, a quiet revolution is taking place. It's not one of loud proclamations or radical changes, but of steadfast commitment to a philosophy as old as the vines themselves. This week, our Winemakers On Fire newsletter turns its spotlight on Bertho van der Westhuizen, the custodian of a legacy that has stood the test of time at Alto Wine Estate.

In an era where many wineries chase trends like butterflies, Alto has remained true to its roots, quite literally. For nearly a century, their vines have clung to the northern slopes of the Helderberg, soaking in what Bertho calls "cool sunshine"—a microclimate that has become the secret weapon behind their internationally acclaimed reds. But what truly sets Alto apart isn't just their terroir; it's their timeless approach to winemaking that balances reverence for tradition with a keen eye on the future.

If you're a wine lover eager to understand what makes a bottle truly extraordinary, Bertho's insights are liquid gold. He challenges the notion that innovation means abandoning the past, showing instead how understanding your roots can lead to wines that not only win awards but also win hearts across generations.

So, uncork your curiosity and join us this week as we delve into the world of Alto Wine Estate. Discover how their commitment to quality, sustainability, and the unique voice of their land have kept their wines at the forefront of South Africa's wine renaissance. 

Let’s dive in.

 Alto Wine Estate's Bertho van der Westhuizen: Crafting Stellenbosch's Finest Reds with Terroir-Driven Winemaking

In the fast-paced world of winemaking, where trends shift like sand and consumer preferences evolve at the speed of social media, it's easy for wineries to lose sight of what truly matters. Many producers find themselves caught in a whirlwind, chasing the latest fads or sacrificing quality for quantity, only to find their wines lost in a sea of mediocrity. But amidst this chaos, there are those who stand firm, rooted in a philosophy that transcends fleeting fashions and market whims.

Enter Bertho van der Westhuizen, the winemaker at Alto Wine Estate in South Africa's famed Stellenbosch region. In our exclusive interview, Bertho unveils the timeless principles that have not only sustained Alto's reputation for over a century but also propelled it to new heights in the competitive world of fine wines. For winery owners, aspiring winemakers, and wine enthusiasts alike, this article offers a masterclass in balancing tradition with innovation, respecting terroir, and embracing sustainability—not as buzzwords but as the very essence of exceptional winemaking.

Whether you're struggling to define your winery's identity, seeking to elevate your wines' quality, or simply aiming to deepen your appreciation of what's in your glass, Bertho's insights provide a roadmap. In a world that often values the new over the tried-and-true, his wisdom reminds us that the most enduring success stories are built on a foundation of respect—for the land, for legacy, and for the future. Join us as we uncork the secrets behind Alto's enduring excellence and discover how these principles can transform your approach to wine.

Bertho, your journey as a winemaker has taken you through various prominent estates like Citrusdal Cellars, Kleine Zalze, Boschendal, and Brampton. How has this diverse experience shaped your winemaking philosophy and approach at Alto Wine Estate?

Every property and brand that I have worked with shapes you in a certain way. This is how you gain experience. In Citrusdal, we worked mainly with "bosstokke” (free-standing vine stocks). This helped me understand it better when I got to Kleine Zalze. We had a massive focus on Chenin Blanc, especially bush vines. Boschendal and Brampton gave me a lot of insight into working on a larger scale, and how to focus on and understand various terroirs.

For instance, we had Shiraz stretching all the way from the Swartland to Elgin. These areas ripened approximately two months apart. So working with top-class Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Elgin at the same time poses challenges! Alto is a special place; the terroir dictates why, what, and when we do certain actions in the vineyards. 

Alto wines have consistently received high praise and accolades for their exceptional quality and value. For instance, James Suckling awarded the Alto MPHS flagship release 2017 a remarkable 94 points, and Tim Atkin bestowed the Alto Estate Blend 2022 with 93 points, while also naming the Alto Rouge as the "Best Value Red Wine of the Year 2023." What does this recognition mean for you and the Alto team, and how do you maintain such a delicate balance between quality and affordability?

It is wonderful to receive these accolades and we keep on trying every day. But at the end of the day, the consumer decides what he is drinking tonight or in the next couple of days. We try to overdeliver on every bottle that carries the Alto name. This ensures consistent quality for our consumers. We have a customer base that has been built over generations; Alto is part of the South African wine DNA!

Alto is renowned for its exceptional terroir, with vineyards positioned on the slopes of the Helderberg mountain range. How does this unique location and microclimate influence the character and style of Alto's wines, particularly the iconic Alto Rouge blend?

For me, the special element of all our wines is our unique terroir on the Helderberg. We face north and this is usually the warmer slope in the Southern Hemisphere. But our proximity to False Bay and the maritime influence of the cooling south and south easterly winds create a sort of air conditioning effect. This is what I call “cool sunshine.” There is enough sun to ripen the Bordeaux varieties properly, but it is also slow. This ensures good tannin ripeness at lower sugar levels.

Alto Wine Estate has been privileged to only have five winemakers in its 100-year history, with two being father-son combinations. How do you honour and learn from the winemaking traditions established by your predecessors while also embracing innovation and adapting to evolving consumer preferences?

For me personally, this is easy; we are just the custodians of the brand. We are borrowing it from the next generation. There is no substitute for quality and if consistency and quality play an integral part of your business, then you should be successful. 

Sustainability and environmental stewardship are increasingly important in the wine industry. Could you share some of the sustainable practices employed at Alto Wine Estate and how they contribute to the overall quality and character of your wines?

I believe we do not inherit land from our predecessors, but we borrow it from our children. And I believe that if you follow this very basic principle, you will make the right choice and get the best result.

The Alto Rouge blend is a true icon of South African winemaking. Could you walk us through the blending process and how you determine the ideal proportions of the various grape varieties used in each vintage?

We are striving for a blend of 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 30% Shiraz, with the remaining 10% a combination of Merlot and Petit Verdot. But when you work with nature, conditions vary, yields vary, and you can get a totally different blend. But the one thing that always stands out is our terroir. In my opinion, the percentage of the blend does not determine the style or consistency, but rather the terroir or sense of place. The Helderberg is a special place.

Apart from the renowned Alto Rouge, which other wines in Alto's portfolio hold a special place in your heart, and why? What makes them unique or particularly noteworthy?

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Sauvignon blends work fantastically in our terroir. Our Cabernet Sauvignon has a different flavour profile on the Helderberg than other areas in Stellenbosch. This also makes producing Cabernet Sauvignon very interesting. Stellenbosch is Cabernet Sauvignon country. We have the wines and the knowledge to put Stellenbosch on the world stage when it comes to Cabernet.

Cabernet Franc is also a young and upcoming rockstar on the Helderberg. We are producing much purer and well-balanced Cabernet Franc`s. Its only going to get more interesting in the years to come.

Alto has a rich history and legacy spanning over a century. As the current custodian of this esteemed estate, could you share your future plans and vision for preserving and enhancing Alto's reputation in the years to come?

We certainly have entered very exciting times. We are investing in a very serious replanting programme. This will not only result in new clones and virus-free material but also bring back the original Alto Cabernet Sauvignon clone and Alto Shiraz clone. We are also planning the expansion of our production facilities and the incorporation of some cement fermenters and foudre for maturation.

Here are three essential insights from our interview with Bertho van der Westhuizen, winemaker at Alto Wine Estate:

1. Terroir-driven winemaking: Bertho emphasises the unique terroir of Alto's vineyards on the Helderberg mountain range as the defining factor in their wines' character. The combination of north-facing slopes and cooling maritime winds creates what he calls "cool sunshine," allowing for proper ripening of Bordeaux varieties with good tannin structure at lower sugar levels. This insight underscores the importance of understanding and working in harmony with the natural environment to produce exceptional wines.

2. Balancing tradition and innovation: As only the fifth winemaker in Alto's 100-year history, Bertho views his role as a custodian of the brand, borrowing it from future generations. He believes that by focusing on consistent quality, a principle established by his predecessors, Alto can maintain its success while also embracing innovation. This perspective highlights the value of respecting a brand's heritage while adapting to evolving consumer preferences.

3. Sustainable practices as a guiding principle: Bertho's approach to sustainability is rooted in the belief that we borrow the land from our children, not inherit it from our predecessors. This simple yet profound principle guides their decision-making, ensuring they make choices that benefit both the environment and the quality of their wines. This insight demonstrates how integrating sustainability into core business values can lead to better outcomes for both the product and the planet.

Thank you, Bertho, for opening the doors to Alto's storied vineyards and sharing your insights. Your reverence for Helderberg's "cool sunshine," your commitment to being a custodian of Alto's century-old legacy, and your belief in borrowing the land from our children are not just winemaking philosophies—they're lessons in stewardship that resonate far beyond the cellar. Here's to many more decades of your thoughtful guardianship.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.

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