Winemakers On Fire, Issue #55

Hello, fellow wine lovers!

This week, Winemakers On Fire ignites with the passion and vision of Alex McFarlane, co-owner and winemaker at McFarlane Wines. 

In the heart of South Africa's diverse wine regions, Alex is crafting more than just exceptional wines; she's bottling a philosophy that honours the past while innovating for the future.

Imagine sipping a glass that not only delights your palate but also tells the story of South Africa's rich viticultural heritage. That's the McFarlane experience. Alex's commitment to reviving heritage varieties through small-batch production is not just preserving history; it's creating liquid art with a conscience.

From her hands-on approach in the vineyard to her ethical partnerships with local growers, Alex embodies the spirit of a new generation of winemakers who understand that great wines are born from great responsibility.

Prepare to be inspired as we uncork the story of a winemaker who's proving that tradition, innovation, and sustainability can coexist beautifully in every bottle.

Cheers to Alex McFarlane, this week's Winemaker On Fire!

Alex McFarlane: Reviving Heritage in Small Batch Wines, Made with Conscience

In the vineyards of South Africa, a quiet revolution is taking place. At its forefront stands Alex McFarlane, co-owner and winemaker at McFarlane Wines, who is redefining the landscape of South African viticulture with a blend of tradition, innovation, and conscience.

Alex's journey in winemaking is as nuanced and complex as the vintages she produces. With a background in viticulture from Stellenbosch University and experience gleaned from prestigious wineries in Napa Valley and Australia, she brings a global perspective to her distinctly South African approach.

At McFarlane Wines, established in 2018 with her husband Wayne, Alex is championing the cause of South Africa's heritage grape varieties. These often-overlooked cultivars, deeply rooted in the country's winemaking history, are given new life through Alex's meticulous small-batch production methods. 

But Alex's commitment extends beyond the bottle. Her approach to winemaking is underpinned by a strong ethical foundation, emphasising sustainable practices and fostering long-term partnerships with local grape growers. This holistic view of sustainability, encompassing both environmental and social aspects, sets McFarlane Wines apart in an industry facing significant challenges.

In our exclusive interview, Alex shares insights into her winemaking philosophy, the importance of preserving South Africa's viticultural heritage, and how she's navigating the delicate balance between tradition, innovation, and sustainability in every bottle she produces.

Alex, please share your experience of how working in Australia and the Napa Valley influenced your winemaking philosophy.

Going overseas soon after graduating really opened my eyes to how big and wide the wine world is and how much there is to learn. Napa and Australia really reinforced a commitment to the vineyard and making great wines in the vineyard. I worked in the Barossa the second time around and that area is steeped in tradition. There are many multi-generational wine brands in the area who see themselves as custodians of the land. They work together, represent their family legacy with pride and take great care of the land. This really resonated with me.

In Napa, there is a drive for perfection and attention to detail, sparing no expense to drive quality. I am a perfectionist at heart so working in an environment that functions with hygiene and small batches to make the best wine is something I practice today.

You majored in viticulture at Stellenbosch University, a relatively uncommon choice for winemakers. What inspired you to focus on viticulture, and how has that knowledge enhanced your winemaking approach? 

I didn’t specialise in viticulture but chose to leave winemaking to work as a viticulturist for De Toren after my time at Spier to learn the practicalities of vineyard growing with quality in mind. It is the pinnacle of brands to work for to learn this. The attention to detail and energy put into those vineyards is unparalleled and as such, I strive for that level of perfection when consulting for clients on their vineyards.

When you started McFarlane Wines in 2018 with your husband Wayne, you mentioned a desire to honour South Africa's heritage varieties. Can you explain what attracted you to these varieties and why preserving them is important? 

We have swathes of varieties planted many years ago for reasons other than superior quality, i.e., brandy (Chenin), suitability for bearing prolifically and being disease resistant (Cinsault) but these varieties have survived and thrived in our country. I want to showcase them as fine wines that show nuance, freshness, and character from where they are planted. They are part of our vinous identity. They were part of our industry’s foundation. They are proudly South African, as am I.

In your interview with Wasted Wine Club, you discussed sustainable agriculture. Could you explain your philosophy on balancing environmental sustainability with the financial sustainability of a farming business? 

Sustainability has so many meanings in so many different contexts. While I would love to buy all my fruit from vineyards being grown, avoiding hard chemicals and fertilisers, that approach isn’t practical, affordable, or applicable for every grower and growing area. We aren’t at that point yet, where we are buying whole blocks and can push the grower to farm in a certain way, but I hope to be there soon.

A good example is my rosé grape grower. They farm their fruit for the co-op nearby. The co-op holds the cards in many ways, so this grower needs to be cropping a certain tonnage per hectare to make a profit. If that block is no longer financially sustainable, he will need to rip it out. If I pay him a more sustainable rate per tonne, it keeps this vineyard in the ground, history is preserved, and it becomes more sustainable for him to farm. He is not financially able to put a cover crop in this block yet so once we buy all the fruit from this block, we will enable the grower to start small by having a cover crop here and thereby invest more in the soil of this block.

Sustainability is so much more than just the inputs; it’s about a long-term partnership with our friends who are custodians of our precious soils.

Considering challenges such as rising production costs, load shedding, and water scarcity, what crucial steps should the South African wine industry take to adapt and remain viable? 

That is a difficult question to answer! We are a cash strapped industry, and we rely on basic services like water and electricity supply. Our energy supply (Eskom) is in a death-spiral and we have no access to solar at our current cellar space, where we rent. That impacts our production & bottom line hugely.  We looked at a generator but the running and maintenance costs, let alone the initial cost, are not easy to justify. 

We obviously need to be looking at our water use but only the big cellars with bigger budgets have a better processing plant in place for effluent water and can use it for irrigation.  Winemaking is highly water and energy intensive and as a tiny fledgling business, we are at the mercy of crumbling infrastructure and rental facilities until we can afford our own space.  We need a huge change in our mindset to make things easier for us to do business so we can continue contributing to the GDP, provide employment, and have less of an impact on our environment.

On the other hand, what opportunities do you see for the South African wine industry in the coming years, and how can it capitalise on its unique strengths and heritage? 

We make incredible wines with outrageous value for money on a global scale.  This is unparalleled by most other wine-producing regions. We also have incredibly diverse growing regions with loads of interesting pockets suitable for our heritage varieties. We have lots of mesmerising stories to tell the rest of the world and I am so proud of that.

As a winemaker, what role does terroir play in shaping your wines' character, and how do you strive to express a sense of place in your bottlings? 

It has a huge impact. I harvest from many different small pockets and blend different regions to make the best wine. The critics don’t love that approach but it gives me lots of elements to play with and make a great, consistent product for our consumers.

Could you share your vision for McFarlane Wines' future? What are your long-term goals regarding wine production and sustainable practices?  

We hope to grow our business so we can employ more people and contribute to our community by upskilling those who haven’t had great opportunities to start with. We hope to also have a “brand home” and own a little bit of land that we can call our own. 

Uncorking Wisdom: Alex McFarlane's Vintage Insights

As we delve into the world of Alex McFarlane, founder of McFarlane Wines, three key themes emerge that define her approach to winemaking. These insights not only shape her craft but also offer valuable lessons for wine enthusiasts and industry professionals alike. Let's pour over the essence of our conversation:

1. Balancing tradition and innovation in winemaking: Alex emphasises the importance of honouring South Africa's heritage grape varieties while striving for quality and innovation. She sees these varieties as part of South Africa's vinous identity and aims to showcase them as fine wines that express their unique character and terroir. This approach demonstrates how winemakers can preserve tradition while still creating high-quality, distinctive products.

2. Sustainable partnerships with grape growers: Alex's perspective on sustainability goes beyond environmental practices. She highlights the importance of building long-term partnerships with grape growers, paying sustainable rates to keep vineyards in production, and gradually implementing environmentally friendly practices. This holistic approach to sustainability considers both the financial viability of farming and environmental stewardship.

3. Adapting to challenges in the wine industry: Alex candidly discusses the challenges facing South African winemakers, including rising costs, unreliable electricity, and water scarcity. While acknowledging the difficulties, especially for small producers, she also points out opportunities such as the country's diverse growing regions and the exceptional value of South African wines on the global market. This insight underscores the resilience and adaptability required in the wine industry.

A massive thank you to Alex McFarlane for generously sharing your time, insights, and passion with us. Your dedication to preserving South Africa's viticultural heritage while innovating for the future is truly inspiring. We wish you continued success as you craft exceptional wines and shape the industry's future.

A special thanks also goes to Carolyn (Caz) Miller for connecting us with Alex. Carolyn’s passion for South African wines drove her to create a platform where the world can discover the unique personalities and stories behind each bottle. Her mission is clear: to lift up smaller brands that, in turn, lift up communities. One case is effectively a pallet; one success is a ripple that spreads hope. Join Carolyn in supporting SA’s finest wines and the dreams of its winemakers, one bottle at a time.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.