Winemakers On Fire, Issue #61

Hello, fellow wine lovers!

This week's Winemakers On Fire spotlights Moritz Bak, the visionary behind Res Fortes Winery in Roussillon, France. Bak's journey from a young wine enthusiast to an award-winning winemaker is as inspiring as it is unique. Blending his passion for mountaineering with innovative winemaking, Bak has crafted a brand that truly stands out in the competitive world of wine.

From his early experiences in the South of France to his global winemaking adventures, Bak's story is one of determination and creativity. Join us as we explore how this mountain-climbing winemaker is revolutionising Roussillon wines, balancing tradition and innovation to produce exceptional vintages that capture the essence of their terroir.

After working with dozens of amazing and talented winemakers all over the world and winning numerous prestigious awards and accolades, Moritz knew he was ready to break out on his own. “In 2014, I decided it was time to use what I had learned from all over the world and create my own premiere vintage!”

Let’s dive in.

Climbing to New Heights: Moritz Bak's Winemaking Adventure in Roussillon

Nestled in the rugged foothills of the Pyrenees, Res Fortes Winery stands as a testament to one man's passion for both winemaking and mountaineering.

Moritz Bak, founder and winemaker, has infused his love for scaling peaks into crafting wines that reach new heights of excellence. From childhood summers in the South of France to traversing global vineyards, Bak's journey is one of relentless pursuit and innovation. In the challenging terroir of Roussillon, he has found the perfect arena to blend tradition with modern techniques, producing wines that embody the spirit of their unique landscape.

Res Fortes, meaning "Strong Things" in Latin, reflects not only the robust character of Bak's wines but also his philosophy of conquering difficult terrain—both literal and metaphorical.

This is the story of how a mountain-climbing winemaker is reshaping the landscape of Roussillon wines, one vintage at a time.

Moritz, can you share your journey of how you became fascinated with wine and winemaking from a young age, spending summers with your grandfather in the South of France?

There were two defining experiences that drove me to a career in wine. First, as you mentioned, I spent summers with my grandfather. During the school holidays from ages 8–11, my family would drive from London to the south of France to spend time with my grandparents, who were based there.  

They lived in the mountains behind Nice and Antibes, in a small village between Valbone and Opio.They had retired there, and we would spend three weeks each summer with them. It was a wonderful time when I got to experience incredible food and beautiful wine. Of course, I was very young so I could only have a small taste here and there, but exposure to the French Riviera lifestyle and listening to my grandfather’s passion for wine got me interested.  

The second were our family ski trips to the French or Swiss alps during the winter. We would often catch the train going from Geneva to Zermatt and we would pass the vineyards all along Lake Geneva and I found it absolutely stunning to see how people could grow grapes on those steep slopes. I think these two parts of my life got me hooked on the idea of winemaking by the time I was 16.

You've worked at some of the world's greatest vineyards before starting Res Fortes. What were some of the most valuable lessons you learned during that time? 

Working around the world was such an eye-opener for me. I think working at so many different wineries in so many different places was the best thing I could have done to really understand the concepts of winemaking. I was young, 21 years old, when I finished my university degree in winemaking and set off on my journeys. I was doing two harvests a year, jumping between the northern and southern hemispheres, which was very challenging. I did this for four years (eight harvests), which was exhausting but prepared me to be ready to settle down and start my own venture.  

I learned many lessons along the way. Some of the most important were learning how to stay mentally acute while being physically exhausted. During a 6–8-week harvest, it would not be uncommon to work 100 hours in a week, multiple weeks, all the while having to stay on top of so many moving parts.  

One example I can think of was working for Angove’s family wines, a terrific producer who had a contract with Penfold’s to make some fortified wines and I was the vintage winemaker and therefore responsible for everything. We had a tank that was fermenting, and we had to stop the fermentation at a very precise point, and if you missed it, the whole tank was ruined. So, while at the tail end of a 100 hour work week, managing trucks full of grapes coming and going and being delivered to the correct tanks, etc., I had to check this fortified ferment every 30 minutes without error to ensure it was perfect. 

It was experiences like this that taught me a lot about myself and what I could do: dealing with stress, making decisions under pressure, working long hours, problem solving, understanding when to pick grapes, how to manage the process, etc.  

Res Fortes has been praised for its innovative and modern approach, while still honouring tradition. How do you balance those two elements in your winemaking?

We start by honouring the unique characteristics of our vineyards, which are a critical part of our tradition. By understanding and respecting the soil, climate, and history of our land, we can make decisions that stay true to our roots.  We also try to employ time-honoured techniques that have been passed down through generations, while also creating a modern style of wine that will appeal to current consumer trends. This includes hand-harvesting grapes, using natural fermentation processes, and occasionally using oak barrels. These methods preserve the essence of our heritage and ensure that each bottle reflects our legacy. 

To complement our traditional methods, we then integrate the latest technology into our winemaking process. This includes using advanced viticultural practices, precise climate control in our cellars, and state-of-the-art equipment for monitoring and analysis. These innovations help us to enhance the quality and consistency of our wines without compromising their traditional character.

We believe in constantly pushing the boundaries of what is possible in winemaking. This means experimenting with new grape varieties, blends, and fermentation techniques while always keeping an eye on how these innovations can enhance rather than detract from our style.

Our commitment to sustainability is another way we balance innovation with tradition. We use environmentally friendly practices that protect our vineyards for future generations, such as organic farming, water conservation, and renewable energy sources. By integrating these elements, Res Fortes successfully blends the best of both worlds, creating wines that are innovative and modern while still honouring the rich traditions of our heritage.

What inspired the name "Res Fortes" and how does it tie into your philosophy of winemaking?

My second passion is mountaineering, which was the genesis for the name.  

We are based among the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, and it is a very challenging and rugged landscape to grow grapes in. Res Fortes is Latin and roughly translates to “Strong Things” or “the brave, the courageous, the strong."  You get the idea.  

When I first came to Roussillon to start my own winemaking adventure, I did not want to name it “Domaine Bak” or something like that associated with my name.  So, looking at the beautiful Pyrenees mountains around us, the tallest of which in our region is called Canigou, which at nearly 3,000 metres is a mountain I have summited many times, I came up with the idea for the name.

The Roussillon region's terroir is renowned for its mineral-rich schist terrain. How does this unique terroir influence the wines you produce at Res Fortes?

The mineral-rich schist terrain of Roussillon profoundly influences Res Fortes wines. This soil imparts a distinct minerality, manifesting as a crisp, stony quality that adds complexity and depth to the flavour profile. The excellent drainage properties of schist force vine roots to grow deeper, resulting in grapes with more concentrated flavours and balanced acidity.

The schist terrain also regulates temperature, absorbing heat during the day and releasing it at night, which promotes even ripening and enhances flavour development. Additionally, the stress experienced by vines in these rocky, nutrient-poor conditions encourages the production of fewer but higher-quality grapes, leading to wines with greater depth and character. These factors combine to create wines that are distinctive, high in quality, and truly reflective of Res Fortes' unique terroir.

Sustainability and eco-consciousness seem to be core values at Res Fortes. Can you elaborate on the sustainable practices you implement in your vineyards and winery?

Sustainability and eco-consciousness are very important for us. We have a sustainability programme in place, grow organically, and make all our wines in a low intervention style to the organic standard.  Res Fortes currently has 10 hectares of organic vineyards, with the intention of eventually getting to 20 hectares. We do not use any synthetics and have strict protocols in the vineyards.

As part of our regenerative agriculture practices, we also have 4 hectares of empty land, which we intentionally leave fallow to promote biodiversity and have planted with a variety of wildflowers and indigenous plants. We will also be adding beehives to our vineyard land shortly.   

Res Fortes has achieved numerous accolades, including being named "Winery of the Year" by the USA Wine Ratings. What does this recognition mean to you and your team?

This accolade validates the hard work, passion, and dedication that every member of our team puts into creating exceptional wines. It is a testament to our commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and the relentless pursuit of excellence in winemaking.  

Achieving this recognition affirms our vision and approach to winemaking. It reassures us that our balance of innovative techniques and respect for tradition is resonating with both critics and consumers, and it motivates us to continue refining and perfecting our methods.

Additionally, awards like these significantly boost the morale of our team and myself.  It instills a sense of pride and accomplishment, fostering a collaborative and enthusiastic working environment. Knowing that our efforts are recognised on such a prestigious platform inspires us to aim even higher. We feel immense gratitude towards our supporters, customers, and the wine community for believing in our work. With this recognition comes a heightened sense of responsibility to maintain the high standards that earned us this award and to continuously deliver exceptional wines.

Looking to the future, what are your goals and vision for Res Fortes in the years to come?

My goal has always been to expand out of France and make wine in the regions where I worked when I was travelling the world. I believe in the future you will see me working with other wineries in Germany, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, which I’m excited about.

Key Insights from Our Conversation with Moritz Bak

Moritz Bak's journey in winemaking, from childhood experiences to founding Res Fortes, offers valuable insights for wine professionals and enthusiasts alike. His approach blends tradition with innovation, emphasising the importance of terroir and sustainability in creating exceptional wines.

Early Exposure Shapes Passion

Bak's fascination with wine began in childhood, influenced by summers in the South of France and train journeys through the Alps. These early experiences, particularly his grandfather's passion for wine, sparked a lifelong interest that eventually led to his career in winemaking. This highlights the impact of early exposure to wine culture on shaping future career paths in the industry.

Global Experience Enhances Expertise

Working harvests across both hemispheres for four years provided Bak with invaluable experience in various winemaking techniques and challenges. This global perspective allowed him to develop crucial skills such as decision-making under pressure, problem-solving, and understanding diverse grape-growing conditions. For aspiring winemakers, this underscores the importance of gaining diverse, hands-on experience in different wine regions.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation

Res Fortes' approach to winemaking strikes a balance between honouring traditional methods and embracing modern techniques. By respecting the terroir and using time-honoured practices while integrating new technologies and sustainable methods, Bak creates wines that are both innovative and rooted in heritage. This philosophy demonstrates how wineries can evolve with the times while maintaining the essence of their craft.

Thank you, Moritz, for sharing your inspiring journey and insights into winemaking at Res Fortes. We wish you continued success as you scale new heights in both your winemaking adventures and mountaineering pursuits.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.