Winemakers On Fire, Issue #63

Hello, fellow wine lovers!

Welcome to this week's Winemakers On Fire, where we uncork the inspiring story of Joseph Gertse, head winemaker at Mischa Estate. From his childhood among the vines of L'Ormarins to crafting award-winning wines at Havana Hills, Gertse's journey is a testament to passion and perseverance.

Now, at Mischa Estate—a unique winery and one of the Southern Hemisphere's largest vine nurseries—Gertse applies his artisanal touch to the Groenberg terroir. With a philosophy rooted in vineyard-first practices and sustainable methods, he's shaping wines that reflect both tradition and innovation.

Join us as we explore how Gertse is refining Mischa Estate's legacy, one vintage at a time.

“I have a passion for excellent vineyard practices, as quality starts in the vineyard. The fact that Mischa is the first estate in South Africa to graft, grow, and create wines all on one estate greatly appeals to me.”

Let’s dive in.

Joseph Gertse: Crafting Mischa Estate's Artisanal Legacy

Joseph Gertse's journey to becoming the head winemaker at Mischa Estate is a testament to passion, perseverance, and the artistry of winemaking. Growing up among the vineyards of L'Ormarins, the late Anton Rupert's esteemed estate, Gertse's youthful aspiration of becoming a winemaker to supply friends with free drinks has evolved into a distinguished career.

After opening doors at Havana Hills and accumulating numerous accolades, including multiple double gold awards for Shiraz and a Best Bordeaux Blend title, Gertse found a new challenge at Mischa Estate. This unique property, situated in the Groenberg appellation of Wellington, is not only a winery but also one of the Southern Hemisphere's largest vine nurseries. Here, Gertse applies his extensive experience and innovative approach to crafting wines that reflect both the estate's terroir and its commitment to quality.

His story is one of continuous learning, respect for tradition, and a relentless pursuit of excellence in winemaking.

Joseph, you've had an interesting journey to becoming the head winemaker at Mischa Estate. Can you tell us about your transition from Havana Hills and what drew you to this particular estate?

I had the privilege of opening Havana Hills' doors and being their first winemaker. It was not an easy decision to leave; it felt like raising a child and then letting go when they married. However, as the saying goes, everything has a beginning and an end. Growing up on a farm among vineyards drew me to Mischa Estate. I have a passion for excellent vineyard practices, as quality starts in the vineyard. The fact that Mischa is the first estate in South Africa to graft, grow, and create wines all on one estate greatly appealed to me.

Mischa Estate is known for its artisanal approach to winemaking. How does your experience contribute to maintaining and enhancing this reputation?

I firmly believe in the principle that you don't change what works. I often use the analogy of a rugby team: stick to the basics before you start making moves. For now, I am continuing with what is proven to work, but I will soon be experimenting with new techniques that will benefit the estate.

The estate is situated in the Groenberg appellation. How does this unique terroir influence your winemaking decisions and the final character of Mischa Estate wines?

Wellington (Groenberg) is known for its intense heat in February. I quickly realised that a winemaker needs to be in the vineyard to determine the type and style of wine to produce. The risk of overripe grapes is high, which can significantly impact the style of the wine. By harvesting at the optimal Balling Level, we can achieve beautifully full-bodied wines, which is what makes Mischa Estate unique.

Mischa Estate is also one of the largest vine nurseries in the Southern Hemisphere. How does this dual role as both a winery and nursery impact your approach to winemaking?

Being one of the largest vine nurseries, there is a significant expectation for us to produce excellent wine. As the saying goes, you can make bad wine from good grapes, but you cannot make good wine from bad grapes. Therefore, my approach is that if we want to be the best nursery, we must set an example by consistently making the best wines.

Can you tell us about any experimental or innovative techniques you're currently exploring at Mischa Estate?

I am currently experimenting with ageing Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from the same block and fermenting them with the same yeast and style in four different ways: in Flexcube with staves, stainless steel tanks with staves, second-fill barrels, and unoaked in stainless steel tanks. I am eager to see how these methods will yield a well-balanced wine with fullness and fruit.

The estate has a strong focus on environmental sustainability. How do you balance this commitment with the goal of producing high-quality wines?

It is quite a challenge because we work with nature, and we can never predict when rain will come at the wrong time. However, we strive to avoid using pesticides as much as possible. We follow IPW and WIETA guidelines to ensure we produce beautifully balanced wines without harming the environment.

Mischa Estate produces several wine ranges. Which one do you find most challenging or exciting to work with, and why?

What excites me about Mischa's wine ranges is that each range has its own personality, and you can clearly taste the differences between the various styles. I particularly enjoy working with the La Famille range because these wines offer excellent value for money, with a well-balanced fruit and oak profile. The Reserve range is more challenging because our clients expect great value, meaning the wine must be well-balanced, with fullness, fruit, and oak complementing each other. However, our excellent terroir makes achieving this balance easier.

Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for Mischa Estate wines under your leadership?

The years of experience I have gained will definitely bring something positive to Mischa. My tasting abilities have developed significantly, and I believe I am on the verge of a breakthrough. When the right opportunity comes, great things will happen. The advantage I have now is access to high-quality grapes, allowing me to fully express my winemaking skills. My aspiration for Mischa Estate is to stay focused and humble, and the right things will happen at the right time. Focus on the good and make excellent wine.

Key Insights from Our Conversation with Joseph Gertse

Joseph Gertse's journey to becoming the head winemaker at Mischa Estate offers valuable insights into the art and science of winemaking. His experience and approach highlight the importance of terroir, innovation, and sustainability in crafting exceptional wines.

Vineyard-first approach

Gertse emphasises that quality winemaking begins in the vineyard. He stresses the importance of being present in the vineyard to make crucial decisions about harvest timing and wine style, particularly given the intense heat in the Groenberg appellation. This vineyard-centric philosophy allows Mischa Estate to produce full-bodied wines that showcase their unique terroir.

Balancing tradition with innovation

While respecting established practices, Gertse is not afraid to experiment. He's currently exploring different ageing techniques for Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, using various materials and methods. This balance of tradition and innovation allows Mischa Estate to maintain its reputation for quality while continually improving its wines.

Sustainability as a core value

Gertse acknowledges the challenges of sustainable winemaking but remains committed to environmentally friendly practices. By following IPW and WIETA guidelines and minimising pesticide use, Mischa Estate strives to produce high-quality wines while preserving the natural ecosystem. This approach reflects a growing trend in the wine industry towards more sustainable production methods.

Thank you, Joseph, for sharing your winemaking journey and insights with us. Your passion for crafting exceptional wines at Mischa Estate truly shines through, and we're grateful for your time and openness.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.