Winemakers On Fire, Issue #85

Greetings from Cape Town, South Africa!

In the rugged embrace of the Paardeberg Mountain, Matthew Copeland is crafting a bold new chapter in the story of South African wine. This month's Winemakers On Fire feature takes you on a journey with a visionary who sees winemaking as more than a profession—it's a passionate dialogue between land, tradition, and innovation. From organic cellars across Europe to the sun-drenched slopes of Paarl, Copeland has crafted a philosophy that celebrates minimal intervention and maximum respect for terroir.

His award-winning Philosophie 2019 isn't just a wine; it's a testament to sustainable viticulture and the magic that happens when a winemaker truly listens to the landscape.

Get ready to be inspired.

"It's really not complicated. We believe that long-term strategies that preserve and revitalise our soils will outweigh any short-term gains."

Let’s dive in!

Soil to Soul: Matthew Copeland's Sustainable Wine Revolution in Paardeberg

A Global Journey, A Local Soul

In the heart of the Paardeberg Mountain, nestled within the rugged landscape of Paarl, Matthew Copeland is crafting a bold new chapter in the story of South African winemaking. His journey isn't just about creating exceptional wines—it's about weaving together international expertise, environmental stewardship, and a profound respect for terroir.

Copeland's path to winemaking is anything but traditional. "I started in Switzerland and France even before I studied," he recalls. "Both cellars were organic, and initially not knowing the language or viticultural philosophies compelled me to immerse myself in an entirely new culture and career." This early international exposure became the crucible for his unique approach, transforming language barriers and cultural differences into a rich, global perspective on winemaking.

The Terroir of Transformation

The Paardeberg Mountain isn't just a location for Copeland—it's a living, breathing ecosystem that fundamentally shapes his wines. The granite-rich slopes and south-facing vineyards are key players in his winemaking magic. "Granite is abundant on the slopes of this granite outcrop and brings vitality and verve to our fruit profile in an otherwise warm climate," he explains. "The South facing slopes take the sting out of the sun and improve the pH and acidity of our grapes."

This intimate connection with the landscape goes beyond mere agricultural practice. Vondeling maintains 400 hectares of indigenous fynbos, transforming the vineyard into a conservation sanctuary. Copeland's approach to environmental stewardship is refreshingly straightforward: "It's really not complicated. We believe that long-term strategies that preserve and revitalise our soils will outweigh any short-term gains."

His commitment to biodiversity is more than just environmental consciousness—it's a fundamental belief in the interconnectedness of ecosystems. "What enables unique plant species on our farm will similarly enable us to make unique wines with a sense of place," he notes. This philosophy has led to remarkable discoveries, including the rediscovery of flora thought to be extinct and the identification of an entirely new plant species.

Less is More: The Philosophy of Authentic Winemaking

Copeland's winemaking mantra is provocatively simple: do less, observe more. "There's a lot of historically misleading information bandied about in wine," he says. "I want to step away from the myths and miss-truths and share with people something that increases in complexity the less we fiddle with it."

This philosophy of minimal intervention was dramatically validated when the Philosophie 2019 was awarded Bordeaux-Style Red Wine of the Year in the Platter Guide 2024, scoring an impressive 97 points. For Copeland, this wasn't just a personal triumph but a validation of sustainable, mindful viticulture. "The excellence to which we aspire can only be achieved through long-term commitments in the vineyard," he reflects. "Sustainable practices, excellent crop and canopy management linked to the appropriate clones and virus control are key to development."

Beyond the Bottle: A Holistic Vision

Vondeling isn't just a wine estate—it's an ecosystem of innovation. The Babiana Trail and bird hide have transformed the property into an eco-tourism destination. "In recent years, we've noticed an influx of birdlife, which we feel is a wonderful endorsement of what we practice," Copeland explains. "We'd like to share that with visitors."

The estate's commitment extends to sustainable practices like solar panels and minimising chemical interventions. "We stay as far away as we can from herbicides and copper, while promoting environmental corridors and permanent crop cover," he emphasises.

The Human Side of Winemaking

When discussing his role, Copeland is refreshingly humble. Asked about his "superpower" as a winemaker, he responds, "As a winemaker, you need to be versatile. In a day, you need to work with staff, fix machinery, plan logistically, drive sales, and so on. I don't consider it a superpower, but I am proud to be a winemaker."

His advice to aspiring winemakers is both practical and philosophical: "Keep notes. Your experiences are more profound than anything that can be measured. Do less to your wines... the more you do, the less you can see of the impact of your actions. Winemaking takes time and is often arduous. Hang in there and when you get there, beware your ego."

The Future of South African Wine

Copeland views the South African wine industry with cautious optimism. "In terms of skills, it's never been better," he notes. "We have a generation of senior leaders who want to share their knowledge with young, highly motivated, well-travelled, well-educated winemakers and growers."

However, he's also pragmatic about challenges. "With rocketing costs in production and farming, cellars will need to scale back or scale up to survive. We're already seeing this happening," he warns, highlighting the complex economic landscape facing the industry.

The Last Pour

For Matthew Copeland, winemaking is more than a profession—it's a calling that bridges culture, science, and environmental stewardship. At Vondeling, each bottle tells a story of a place, a philosophy, and a commitment to authenticity.

As he succinctly puts it, "Good food and great wine belong together." And at Vondeling, they're crafting that connection, one mindful grape at a time.

His parting words perhaps best capture his ethos: "Hello—I'm Matt and I live here." Simple, direct, rooted—much like the wines he creates.

Here's what you missed last week...

What happens when you mix marketing savvy, global experience, and a deep respect for nature? Meet Wikus Pretorius...

From accidental menu mishaps in Corsica to transforming baboon-related harvest challenges into a celebrated wine brand, Wikus Pretorius's journey to becoming La Petite Ferme's winemaker is anything but conventional. In last week's Winemakers On Fire, we dived into the story of a marketing professional turned vintner who learnt his craft in vineyards across three continents.

Discover how a near-fatal helicopter crash shaped his philosophy, why he lets nature lead his winemaking decisions, and how his partnership with Baboon Matters is changing conservation in the Cape Winelands. This is a tale of innovation, resilience, and authentic luxury in every bottle.

"Nature doesn't care about your preconceived plans. You need to follow and trust Mother Nature, not fight her."

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.