Winemakers On Fire, Issue #98

Welcome to this week's edition of Winemakers On Fire! 

In the sun-drenched Bottelary Hills, where history runs as deep as the granite soils, fourth-generation winemaker Danie Steytler is writing the next chapter of Kaapzicht Estate's remarkable story. From a cherished 1947 Chenin Blanc vineyard planted by his great-grandfather to pioneering work with Pinotage, Danie's journey reflects the evolution of South African wine itself.

This week, Danie shares candid insights about transforming from bulk production to premium wines, the distinctive terroir of Bottelary, and his pragmatic approach to regenerative farming (complete with cattle that double as weed managers and future steaks).

Join us for a conversation that sparkles with wisdom, humour, and deep-rooted passion.

 "Bottelary is special because it's my home."

Let’s dive in.

A Legacy in the Bottelary Hills: Four Generations of Winemaking at Kaapzicht Estate

From Bulk to Brilliance: The Evolution of a Family Estate

In the heart of South Africa's historic Bottelary Hills, where early settlers once rested their horses on the two-day journey to Stellenbosch, the Steytler family has been crafting wines at Kaapzicht Estate for over 75 years. Danie Steytler, the current steward of this legacy, shares a story of evolution, innovation, and deep-rooted connection to the land.

The estate's transformation mirrors the broader evolution of South African wine. "We made bulk wine for the first 38 years," Danie reflects, "where quantity ruled supreme." But 1984 marked a pivotal shift when Kaapzicht began bottling under its own label, heralding a new era focused on quality over volume. The introduction of cooling technology in the 1980s revolutionised their winemaking, replacing his grandfather's resourceful but primitive method of cooling hot juice on concrete floors—a practice that makes Danie chuckle, admitting he's "rather glad" none of those wines survive for tasting today.

The technical evolution of the cellar has been equally dramatic. Modern destemmers have replaced their historical counterparts, delivering pristinely sorted fruit, while gentler pressing techniques have replaced the old Vaseline press, significantly elevating wine quality across the board.

A Living Link to the Past

The 1947 Chenin Blanc vineyard stands as a testament to Kaapzicht's rich history and the Steytler family's dedication to preserving their heritage. Originally planted by Danie's great-grandfather and spanning just over six hectares, this vineyard—then known as "Groot Steen" – represents more than just old vines. It embodies the agricultural traditions of a different era, when horses and manual labour shaped the landscape, before the advent of tractors and modern farming equipment.

What makes this vineyard truly remarkable is its role as a living bridge between generations. It's one of the few vineyards in South Africa that has been tended by four generations of the same family, each contributing to its story and crafting wines from its fruit. "For me, the special part is it's a vineyard that connects me to the first Steytler here on Kaapzicht," Danie says, his voice carrying the weight of this historical continuity. "It's a wine that has been made by all four generations, and I still have this privilege to keep up the tradition."

Champion of Bottelary

Ask Danie about what makes Bottelary special, and his response is both passionate and humble. "Bottelary is special because it's my home," he says, quickly acknowledging that farmers from Swartland or Elgin would say the same about their regions. But there's something unique about these hills that have nurtured vines for centuries.

The region's name itself tells a story—"Bottelary" refers to the ship's pantry or "spens," reflecting its historical role as a provision stop for early settlers. Today, it remains a region where family farms predominate, each carrying its own soul and story. The area's granitic soils and varied exposures create a distinctive terroir that Danie champions with quiet confidence.

Global Influence, Local Application

Danie's winemaking philosophy has been shaped by experiences beyond South Africa's borders. His work at overseas wineries has exposed him to the vast diversity of the wine world, from different cultural approaches to varying technical practices. However, he's quick to point out that valuable lessons can be found closer to home too. "You don't have to travel far," he notes. "You can learn a lot from the great winemakers we have in SA."

These international experiences have influenced everything from technical practices to cultural traditions at Kaapzicht. Sometimes it's as simple as adopting the tradition of sharing a Friday harvest lunch with the team or implementing enhanced health and safety standards observed in New World wineries. Each experience has contributed to shaping his winemaking approach, though he emphasises that South Africa's own wine community offers equally valuable learning opportunities.

The Pinotage Legacy

Kaapzicht's approach to Pinotage exemplifies their deep understanding of Bottelary's terroir. The estate produces two distinct expressions of South Africa's signature grape, each reflecting its specific site. On the warmer, granitic slopes, they produce their Rooiland and Steytler Pinotages—wines of power and concentration, particularly from their old bush vines. In contrast, their cooler sites, benefiting from False Bay's influence and elevated position at 300 meters, yield the more restrained Skraalhans Pinotage, which Danie describes as showcasing the variety's heritage from its parent grapes, Cinsault and Pinot Noir.

Embracing Sustainable Future

Looking ahead, Kaapzicht is transitioning toward organic and regenerative viticulture. "We want to farm better, have healthier soils, and healthier vines," Danie explains. Their approach includes innovative solutions like reintroducing cattle to manage weeds—a move that Danie notes has the added benefit of reducing his steak budget.

The Human Touch

At its core, Kaapzicht remains deeply rooted in family and community. Many workers represent second or third generations on the estate, creating a shared pride in their craft. "Making wine is an accumulation of effort over a full year in the vineyard and often another two in the cellar," Danie reflects. This collaborative spirit, combined with a commitment to improvement, drives their pursuit of excellence.

When asked about his vision for Kaapzicht's future, Danie responds with characteristic humour and humility: "Currently my only plan is not to go bankrupt." But his true ambition shines through—to pass on the estate to the next generation in better condition than he received it, while making a positive difference in the lives of those around him. It's a vision that honours both the legacy of the past and the promise of the future in the storied hills of Bottelary.

Here's what you missed last week...

Last month's Winemakers On Fire manifesto, “Wine’s Dynamic Decade: A Futurist’s Guide to 2025’s Top Trends, Innovations, and Emerging Technologies,” isn't just another industry forecast—it's a roadmap to wine's most transformative decade. From AI-powered vineyards to sustainability revolutions, we're diving deep into the technologies and trends that will reshape how we grow, make, and experience wine.

Whether you're a maverick winemaker or a curious wine enthusiast tracking global innovations, this guide is your strategic compass. Let's uncork the future, one trend at a time.

“Success in this new era requires more than just adaptation—it demands anticipation and strategic foresight.

For wine businesses, the message is clear: embrace change while honouring tradition. The winners of tomorrow will be those who can navigate this delicate balance, using new tools and insights to enhance rather than replace what makes wine unique.”

Get ready to be inspired.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.