Winemakers On Fire, Issue #64

Hello, fellow wine lovers!

In this week's edition of Winemakers On Fire, we spotlight Riandri Visser, the visionary head winemaker at Cape Point Vineyards. Nestled against Chapman's Peak with the Atlantic Ocean in view, Visser crafts Sauvignon Blanc masterpieces that challenge conventions and captivate palates.

Her journey from graphic design to winemaking has infused her approach with artistic flair, resulting in innovative blends like South Africa's first Sauvignon Gris addition to their flagship Isliedh. Splitting her time between the Cape and Sancerre, Visser's dedication to her craft has earned consistent acclaim from critics.

Join us as we explore the mind behind Cape Point's liquid artistry and discover how Visser is redefining South African Sauvignon Blanc.

“Winemaking is a form of art. Sauvignon Blanc is like a blank canvas for the artist; there is a big difference between a Picasso and a Monet.” 

Let’s dive in.

Sauvignon Blanc Reimagined: Riandri Visser's Vision at Cape Point Vineyards

Nestled against the slopes of Chapman's Peak, with the Atlantic Ocean as its backdrop, Cape Point Vineyards is home to a winemaking visionary. Riandri Visser, the head winemaker, brings an artist's touch to her craft, transforming Sauvignon Blanc into liquid masterpieces that capture the essence of this unique terroir.

Visser's journey from graphic design student to celebrated winemaker is a testament to her passion and creativity. Under her guidance, Cape Point Vineyards has continued to push boundaries, introducing South Africa's first Sauvignon Gris blend in their flagship Isliedh and earning consistent acclaim from critics like Tim Atkin MW.

With an unwavering commitment to quality and innovation, Visser splits her time between South Africa and Sancerre, deepening her understanding of Sauvignon Blanc. Her approach melds artistic sensibility with technical expertise, resulting in wines that not only express their coastal origin but also challenge perceptions of what Sauvignon Blanc can be.

Hello Riandri. I’m eager to dive into your passion and explore your love for the artistry of winemaking.

Thank you very much.

Your background in graphic design and art seems to have significantly influenced your winemaking philosophy. How do you see the interplay between your artistic sensibilities and your approach to crafting wines at Cape Point Vineyards?

Winemaking is a form of art. Malu Lambert recently interviewed me, and I told her that Sauvignon Blanc is like a blank canvas for the artist; there is a big difference between a Picasso and a Monet. 

As a winemaker, you are constantly faced with decisions. Each decision you make is like a brush stroke. Sometimes, you have to use a bit more paint to get the desired effect; sometimes, you are unsure of what you are doing, and then there are times when it all comes together to form a once-in-a-lifetime masterpiece.  

You've worked under respected winemakers like Miles Mossop and Duncan Savage. How have these mentorships shaped your winemaking style, and what key lessons have you carried forward in your role as head winemaker?

Yes, I had the opportunity to work at Tokara during the 2014 harvest, when Miles was the head winemaker. Initially, I was employed as a forklift driver but tried to be involved wherever possible; I wanted to learn and was eager to work hard. After the harvest, I joined Cape Point Vineyards. 

I was Duncan's assistant for nearly two years; I will always remain grateful. I fell in love with Sauvignon, and the opportunities at Cape Point Vineyards shaped me into who I am today. I learnt to challenge myself, focus on quality, and pay attention to detail. I also realised how important it is to share my knowledge and experience, especially my mistakes.

Your passion for Sauvignon Blanc is evident, even in the names of your pets. What is it about this varietal that captivates you, and how does Cape Point's unique terroir allow you to express its character in ways that might surprise even seasoned wine professionals?

Yes, my dog is called Sauvignon; she is a rescue. I found her on the streets of Cape Town when she was about four weeks old. My cat, Sancerre, has been with me for 11 years. Sadly, Loire passed away two years ago, and now I have a cat named Fumé.

Making Sauvignon Blanc is easy, but creating a wine that does not immediately tell you it is a Sauvignon Blanc is a bit more challenging. Sauvignon Blanc can be very expressive. At Cape Point Vineyards, we have the mountain range, the Atlantic Ocean right in front of us, and the South Easter, making it a challenging but rewarding location. Our yields are extremely low, our bunches and berries are tiny, and we have this touch of salt on the skin, reminding you of a day at the beach. 

I want the wines to express the terroir, the vintage, and the purity of the fruit as if we are capturing a moment in time that will one day become a moment in someone else's life when they open the bottle.

The addition of Sauvignon Gris to your flagship Isliedh blend is a first for South Africa. Can you walk us through the creative process behind this decision and how it contributes to the wine's complexity?

Isliedh is one of South Africa's iconic white wines. It challenges me every year. When you work with a wine like this, there is no room for error. 

We planted Sauvignon Gris a few years ago, and it was an exciting new project. I initially wanted to bottle the Sauvignon Gris separately, but when blending the 2022 Isliedh, it was as if the Sauvignon Gris just added a touch of perfume to the Sauvignon Blanc. It was a bold decision, but I've known Isliedh for ten years and felt it was the right decision, as if I were making the final brush stroke.

You've been travelling to Sancerre since 2019 to deepen your understanding of Sauvignon Blanc. How has this ongoing education influenced your winemaking at Cape Point, and what insights have you gained from working in such a different terroir?

When I became the winemaker at Cape Point Vineyards, the estate's owner encouraged me to go to Sancerre in 2017 to broaden my knowledge. Since 2019, I have been travelling between South Africa and France. I have two harvests per year and two opportunities to deepen my understanding of the varietal. 

Winemaking comes more naturally to me. I have been exposed to different situations in the vineyards, the winery, marketing, and sales, and I have gained much knowledge in all these fields in two different countries. I am more confident in my capabilities as a winemaker and more confident in exploring and pushing boundaries, but I remain focused on quality and showcasing the terroir. 

The terroir in Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, and Coteaux du Giennois differs significantly from Cape Point Vineyards; Sauvignon Blanc thrives in the right location, but that does not permit you to sit back and relax.

The Isliedh 2022 received 96 points from Tim Atkin MW in his 2023 report. How did this recognition impact you, and how do you balance the pressure of such accolades with your desire to continually innovate? 

Our Isliedh first received 96 points from Tim Atkin for the 2017 vintage, which was my first harvest as the winemaker. We have managed to keep the same score over the years. When Tim released his report, I felt a massive sense of relief. It gave me the most significant boost in confidence and the drive to continue lifting the bar. When we received 96 points for the 2022 Isliedh, I felt the same relief because this was the first vintage featuring the Sauvignon Gris. 

I was confident about the blend, but I still felt slightly nervous. You never know how others will receive the wine. Accolades are essential to the brand and its reputation; they keep you on your toes. 

Your recent introduction of a Bordeaux-style red blend marks a departure from Cape Point's focus on white wines. What inspired this move, and how do you approach making reds differently from your beloved whites?

We have always been a white wine-focused winery, and we will remain so, but South Africa also has this rich culture of cooking with fire, and people often like to have a little bit of red next to the fire.

My white winemaking approach is not textbook style. I have been making various red cultivars over the years, and it sometimes reminds me of making a Sauvignon Blanc because we destem, crush, and cold-soak our reds with some SO2, while with many of our Sauvignon Blanc wines, we don't do that. 

Looking to the future, what aspects of winemaking at Cape Point Vineyards excite you the most? Are there any new projects or experiments you're particularly eager to explore in the coming years?

I am always excited to work with Cape Point fruit. We are replanting a few blocks with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and more Sauvignon Gris. I am excited to see how these blocks fare in the future. We are also bottling a single varietal Sauvignon Gris, a Sauvignon Blanc fermented on the skins and an Amphora Sauvignon Blanc.

Your passion for winemaking is evident. Has this enthusiasm spread to others in your life, perhaps inspiring unexpected collaborations?

My sister, Anzette Visser, works with me in the winery at Cape Point Vineyards. We make the wine together. She did her first harvest with me in 2017 after studying architectural technology. She continued to assist part-time in the winery over the years. 

In 2020, when everyone went into lockdown, we had just picked our final grapes, and the wines were far from done. Anzette came to assist with the work in the winery during this period; it was not until 2021 that she officially joined the winemaking team. Anzette has also been able to travel to Sancerre for the past three years. 

Creativity in a Bottle: Riandri Visser's Artistic Touch on Sauvignon Blanc

Riandri Visser, head winemaker at Cape Point Vineyards, brings a unique blend of artistic sensibility and technical expertise to her craft. Her journey from graphic design to winemaking has shaped a distinctive approach that combines creativity, terroir-driven production, and a deep passion for Sauvignon Blanc.

There’s a lot to learn and discover about Riandri’s winemaking approach:

1. Winemaking as an art form: Visser views winemaking through an artistic lens, likening Sauvignon Blanc to a blank canvas. Each decision in the winemaking process is a brush stroke, contributing to the final masterpiece. This perspective allows her to approach winemaking creatively, balancing intuition with technical skill to craft unique and expressive wines.

2. Terroir-driven approach at Cape Point Vineyards: The unique location of Cape Point Vineyards, with its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and mountain slopes, significantly influences Visser's winemaking. She embraces the challenges of low yields and tiny berries, viewing them as opportunities to create wines that truly express their terroir. This approach results in distinctive Sauvignon Blancs that capture the essence of their coastal origin.

3. Continuous learning and innovation: Visser's commitment to ongoing education, exemplified by her annual trips to Sancerre, demonstrates her dedication to deepening her understanding of Sauvignon Blanc. This pursuit of knowledge has led to innovations such as incorporating Sauvignon Gris into the flagship Isliedh blend, a first for South Africa. Her openness to experimentation, balanced with a focus on quality, drives the continuous evolution of Cape Point Vineyards' wines.

Riandri, your blend of artistry and expertise is remarkable. We appreciate you giving us a glimpse into your world at Cape Point Vineyards.

Did you miss last week’s newsletter? We featured Joseph Gertse's artisanal revolution at Mischa Estate. Read!

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.