Winemakers On Fire, Issue #109

Greetings from Cape Town, South Africa!

A century ago, Professor Abraham Izak Perold crossed two grape varieties in his Stellenbosch laboratory, unknowingly creating South Africa's most distinctive wine ambassador. Today, as Pinotage celebrates its 100th birthday, this uniquely South African grape is experiencing a remarkable renaissance. From Jacques Bruwer's excitement about the 2025 vintage to Nongceba Langa's success in American markets, a new generation of winemakers is elevating Pinotage from curiosity to world-class wine.

This week, we explore the passionate characters behind Pinotage's evolution, the innovative techniques driving its premium positioning, and why this climate-resilient variety represents the future of South African wine excellence.

Here's where it gets interesting.

Pinotage at 100: A Toast to Our Homegrown Hero.

Picture this: a century ago, Professor Abraham Izak Perold was tinkering in his laboratory at Stellenbosch University, crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsaut (then called Hermitage) in what would become one of the most significant moments in South African wine history. Little did he know that his botanical matchmaking would create our country's signature grape variety—one that would put South African wine firmly on the global map.

As we celebrate Pinotage's 100th birthday in 2025, it's worth raising a glass not just to the grape itself, but to the remarkable characters who've championed it through decades of triumph, challenge, and reinvention.

The Pioneers Who Believed

While Professor Perold never lived to experience the wines that would emerge from his experimental crossing, visionary winemakers who followed recognised the treasure he'd left behind. It took nearly four decades before the first bottles reached consumers in 1959, following Bellevue Estate's triumph at the National Young Wine Show with their General Smuts Trophy win. Two years later, Stellenbosch Farmers Winery released it under the Lanzerac label, and South African wine was never quite the same.

Fast-forward to today, and you'll find passionate advocates like Cape Wine Master Mark Philp asking the rhetorical question: "Without Pinotage, a variety that is certainly something of our own, where would we hang our hat?" It's a sentiment that resonates deeply with anyone who understands that great wine regions need their own identity, their own story to tell.

The Modern Champions

What makes Pinotage's story particularly compelling is how a new generation of winemakers has elevated it from curiosity to world-class wine. Consider Beyers Truter from Beyerskloof, whose exceptional winemaking earned him global recognition when he claimed the title of Best Winemaker in the World at the International Wine and Spirit Competition. He attributes Pinotage's success to Perold's brilliant choice of parent varieties, recognising that the professor selected grapes that were not only high-yielding but also disease-resistant—perfect for our challenging South African conditions.

Then there's Jacques Bruwer at Bon Courage in Robertson, who's absolutely thrilled about the 2025 vintage. His excitement is palpable when discussing the remarkable fruit concentration achieved through this year's compact, flavour-packed berries, declaring his confidence in what promises to be an exceptional vintage. His enthusiasm is infectious, and it's exactly this kind of passion that keeps pushing Pinotage's boundaries.

Over in Stellenbosch, Nongceba Langa at Delheim has been instrumental in showing international markets what Pinotage can achieve. She recalls her early visits to the United States when consumers were still unsure about our grape. Today, however, she's witnessing a complete transformation in American wine lovers' attitudes. “They are drawn to its vibrant fruit character and its unique identity." That's the power of persistence and quality combined.

Innovation Meets Tradition

The brilliance of contemporary Pinotage production lies in how winemakers seamlessly marry modern innovation with traditional winemaking wisdom. Bartho Eksteen at his Hemel-en-Aarde estate is using the world's first Wilmess Sphera press—a technological marvel that represents precision pressing at its finest. Meanwhile, other producers are rediscovering ancient techniques, using concrete tanks and even amphoras to add unique textural qualities to their wines.

Philip Deetlefs, representing South Africa's second-oldest family-owned winery, offers an intriguing perspective on Pinotage's evolution: "The image of Pinotage has improved dramatically from my father's time. International vineyards are now establishing their own Pinotage blocks, a clear testament to the variety's growing global appeal."

This international recognition didn't happen overnight. It's the result of decades of refinement, understanding, and most importantly, the willingness of these winemakers to experiment and push boundaries.

The Global Conversation Starters

Siobhan Thompson from Wines of South Africa brilliantly describes Pinotage's marketing magic: the variety serves as an instant connection to our country, sparking immediate interest and providing the perfect gateway for international conversations about South African wine excellence.

That "hook" is working beautifully. From European markets that have embraced our signature grape to emerging opportunities in China and the United States, Pinotage is opening doors and starting conversations about South African wine quality and innovation.

Climate-Smart Viticulture

Perhaps most importantly for our future, Pinotage is proving to be remarkably well-suited to our changing climate. The variety's natural tendency to ripen before the peak summer temperatures provides a crucial advantage, helping vintners sidestep both extreme heat stress and the complications of late-harvest weather patterns. Riaan Marais at Alvi's Drift puts it perfectly: "We are fortunate that Pinotage is so well adapted to our weather conditions, and I believe it is because it was developed right here on home soil."

Looking Forward

Rico Basson from South Africa Wine emphasizes the variety's distinctive character: while the country produces exceptional wines from numerous grape varieties, Pinotage maintains its position as something truly extraordinary and unmatched. And special it truly is—producing everything from elegant blanc de noir to robust reds with remarkable aging potential, not to mention its crucial role in our distinctive Cape blends.

After a century of evolution, experimentation, and excellence, Pinotage isn't just surviving—it's thriving. As Jacques Bruwer beautifully puts it: "Pinotage is a hundred years young, not a hundred years old."

So here's to the next century of this uniquely South African success story, and to all the passionate individuals who continue to write its chapters. Cheers to our homegrown hero!

This article draws on published interviews and industry insights from South African wine producers and industry leaders.

Let’s dive into the stories that have been fermenting since our last newsletter...

Here's the uncomfortable truth: while you've been perfecting your tasting notes and fine-tuning your blends, your competitors are rewriting the rules of the wine game. The industry's biggest risk isn't climate change or market volatility—it's the epidemic of playing not to lose. From Stellenbosch to Sonoma, too many producers are choosing the safety of incremental tweaks over the courage of transformative vision.

But that's what separates the Kanonkops from the also-rans: they understand that in today's wine world, playing it safe is the most dangerous strategy of all. Are you ready to stop defending and start winning?

Get ready to be inspired.

Let’s raise a glass to the fortnight ahead—may it bring you brilliant wines and more conversations to share in our next edition.