Winemakers On Fire, Issue #112

Greetings from Cape Town, South Africa!

A young man from Paarl dreamed of becoming an accountant. Today, Mario Damon crafts some of the Swartland's most compelling wines, proving that the best career pivots happen when we least expect them.

His journey from holiday cellar worker to Dalkeith Wines' head winemaker isn't just another success story—it's a masterclass in how authentic relationships, minimal intervention, and deep terroir understanding transform overlooked vineyard sites into world-class expressions.

From Burgundian revelations to neutral oak innovations, Mario's story reveals why South African winemaking's future belongs to those who learn to listen rather than dictate.

Here's where it gets interesting.

The Winemaker Who Learned to Listen: Mario Damon's Journey from Holiday Worker to Swartland Storyteller

A young man from Paarl once dreamed of becoming an accountant. Today, Mario Damon is crafting some of the most compelling wines emerging from the Swartland, proving that the best career pivots often happen when we least expect them. His story with Dalkeith Wines isn't just another winemaker's tale—it's a masterclass in how authentic relationships, minimal intervention, and deep vineyard understanding can transform overlooked terroir into world-class expressions.

When Burgundy Rewrote the Playbook

Mario's transformation from holiday cellar hand to head winemaker began with a revelation that would elevate South African winemaking. Through the SKOP (Senior Kelder Opleidings Program) exchange to Burgundy in the early 2000s, he discovered something revolutionary: less could indeed be more.

"Minimal interference is what I learned in France—protecting the quality of the grapes," Mario reflects. This wasn't the corporate winemaking approach he'd known at DGB, where extraction was maximised and volume prioritised. In those Burgundian cellars, he witnessed winemakers stepping back, letting terroir speak, allowing vineyards to tell their own stories.

This philosophy now anchors every decision at Dalkeith. The Swartland's granite soils, decomposed to beach-sand fineness at Kalmoesfontein, the coffee-ground koffieklip at Jakkalsfontein, the unique shale ridge at Koplandsteen—each site demands its conversation, not a winemaker's heavy-handed interpretation.

The Vessel Whisperer

Mario's approach to barrel management reads like a sommelier's meditation on texture and time. Each vessel choice serves a specific purpose in capturing what he calls "the essence of what can be."

Ceramic vessels grasp freshness and acidity, delivering that coveted linearity wine judges seek. Amphora brings fullness and richness, capturing what Mario describes as "the boldness of the grapes." But it's his commitment to exclusively neutral wood that reveals the deepest philosophy.

"Originally we used a little bit of new oak, but for some reason, the old vine parcels from the Swartland didn't want it," he explains. "The colour would deviate too soon after release." This discovery led to a complete pivot in 2022—one that transformed Dalkeith's wines from good to extraordinary.

The maintenance regime behind this approach would make most winemakers wince. After each blending, every barrel gets steamed—a costly exercise that most producers avoid. Yet Mario's barrels from 2019 remain in pristine condition, something he calls "unheard of" in the industry.

Old Vines, Young Lessons

Working with vineyards spanning six decades teaches patience and humility in equal measure. At Kalmoesfontein, some vines date to the 1960s, their roots penetrating granite decomposed to sand-like consistency. These ancient survivors deliver complexity that time alone creates, but they're also dying.

"Nothing except time can recreate the quality some old vines give us," Mario acknowledges, watching irreplaceable genetic material disappear vine by vine. The challenge becomes philosophical: how do you honour what's disappearing while nurturing what's emerging?

At Jakkalsfontein, younger plantings offer different rewards. "Young vines are more fruity and elegant—you won't be able to make a big and bold wine. But as vineyards get older, they get smarter and wiser, like people." This balance between youthful vibrancy and mature wisdom shapes Dalkeith's portfolio, creating wines that speak to both immediate pleasure and long-term evolution.

The Mentor Who Changed Everything

Behind every exceptional winemaker stands someone who believed first. For Mario, that person was Graham Weerts, whose faith in a young cellar worker's blending abilities launched a partnership that endures today.

"Graham was my mentor—the first one to trust me and take me under his wing," Mario recalls. That trust manifested in opportunities: international experience across Burgundy, Mexico, and California's Stonestreet Winery, plus advanced sommelier training where Mario achieved top honours at CFPPA Beaune in 2006.

Their collaboration exemplifies successful mentorship: Graham brings refined technical skills and vision, while Mario contributes people skills, administrative competence, and deep cellar experience. Most importantly, they continue learning together, tasting and refining their approach with each vintage.

Community Beyond the Cellar

The name Dalkeith honours a Kalahari waterhole where animals gather during the harsh beauty of African days. This metaphor isn't just a poetic flourish—it drives genuine community engagement that extends far beyond the winery gates.

Mario has enrolled his entire cellar team in the SKOP programme, the same education that transformed his trajectory. "I believe this teaches them why everything matters—from vineyards to cellar," he explains. It's investment in people over profit, understanding that exceptional wines emerge from exceptional teams.

His weekend bicycle club takes Wellington youngsters into the mountains, providing bikes and guidance for exploring their natural heritage safely. These initiatives reflect the Jackson Family Wines philosophy of positive environmental and social impact, but they also reveal Mario's commitment to nurturing the next generation.

Philosophy in Practice

Mario's father's wisdom echoes through his professional approach: "If you want to do something, don't be scared to do it. You might make a mistake, fall, but then you get up again." This fearlessness enabled the complete abandonment of new oak, the adoption of intensive barrel maintenance, and the commitment to minimal intervention despite industry pressure for more dramatic winemaking.

"We don't want to make wine that's over-complex or too geeky," Mario emphasises. "We just want to show the essence of what can be if you source good quality grapes." This simplicity requires extraordinary discipline—monthly tastings, careful testing, meticulous barrel management—all while resisting the temptation to over-manipulate.

The Future of South African Fine Wine

Dalkeith represents something profound in South African winemaking: the emergence of producers who honour terroir without apology, who create accessibility without compromising quality, who build community while crafting world-class wines. Mario's journey from holiday worker to head winemaker illustrates the democratic potential of South African wine—talent recognised, mentorship provided, opportunities seized.

As Swartland continues establishing its reputation globally, winemakers like Mario prove that authenticity and excellence aren't mutually exclusive. His wines vibrate with what he calls "quiet energy"—the crystalline purity that emerges when winemakers learn to listen rather than dictate.

In an industry obsessed with scores and accolades, Mario Damon offers something more valuable: proof that the best wines emerge not from manipulation but from partnership between winemaker, vineyard, and community. These are indeed wines made to be told, stories worth sharing, expressions of place that honour both tradition and innovation.

The accountant who never was has become the winemaker the Swartland needed—someone who understands that the most profound expressions often emerge when we step back, listen carefully, and let the land speak for itself.

Let’s dive into the stories that have been fermenting since our last newsletter...

The wine industry is experiencing its most dramatic transformation in centuries, and honestly, it's thrilling to witness. While others see chaos in the collision of AI and ancient traditions, smart operators are spotting the blueprint for something extraordinary. From Cape Town's innovative winemakers to global pioneers, we're watching the phoenix rise from digital disruption's flames.

This isn't about choosing between tradition and technology—it's about using innovation to honour authenticity more deeply than ever before. The four pillars of wine success remain unshakeable, but how we build upon them is revolutionising everything.

Welcome to wine's phoenix moment.

Let’s raise a glass to the fortnight ahead—may it bring you brilliant wines and more conversations to share in our next edition.