Winemakers On Fire, Issue #74

Greetings from Cape Town, South Africa!

Welcome to this week's newsletter, where we celebrate the artistry and craftsmanship that go into creating exceptional wines from diverse backgrounds. Meet Belinda van Eyssen, a pioneering winemaker whose journey from South Africa to Australia has resulted in sustainable, award-winning wines that reflect her boundary-pushing approach and respect for tradition.

Drawing from her personal background, Belinda aims to make wine accessible to everyone, ensuring individuals from diverse backgrounds feel welcomed in the world of wine.

Read Belinda’s inspiring story and discover how she's making an impact in the wine world through her unique perspective, passion for inclusion, and commitment to sustainability.

Let’s dive in!

Over the last few weeks, we’ve been exploring some exciting ideas and concepts around the future of wine and the technology that’s driving innovation in the industry. I’m pleased to announce that we’ve now consolidated these ideas into a dedicated platform: the Terroir 2.0 website.

The Terroir 2.0 website is not just a place to learn about our approach but also a growing hub of resources, conversations, and insights about the fusion of wine and technology. I invite you to visit the site, explore its contents, and join us in this exciting journey.

Visit the Terroir 2.0 website to download our FREE Terroir 2.0 worksheet and uncork your full potential.

Introducing Belinda van Eyssen: A Pioneering Winemakers Journey

Belinda van Eyssen's journey into winemaking is a story of passion, perseverance, and a deep commitment to sustainability and inclusion. Growing up in Mitchell's Plain on the Cape Flats in South Africa, she never saw many winemaking role models that looked like her. However, her studies in Food Technology led her into the wine industry just as South Africa was emerging from the inequities of apartheid.

Driven by her love for winemaking, Belinda's path took her abroad for harvests in the Douro Valley, Sonoma, Marlborough, and Bordeaux, eventually settling in Australia with her partner Daniel. Together, they founded The Cutting in South Australia's Barossa Valley, where Belinda brings her passion for sustainable and regenerative land management to the forefront.

Belinda's winemaking philosophy reflects her cosmopolitan perspective and deep respect for tradition, resulting in award-winning wines that showcase the Barossa Valley's quality and diversity. Beyond the cellar, she champions inclusion, using her unique voice on regional wine committees to make wine more accessible and representative of diverse backgrounds. Belinda's story is an inspiring testament to the power of pursuing one's passion and making a meaningful impact in the world of wine.

From Cape Flats to Vineyard Heights

Belinda van Eyssen's journey to becoming a pioneering winemaker is a testament to her perseverance and passion. From humble beginnings in Mitchell's Plain on the Cape Flats, South Africa, Belinda's early experiences were far removed from the world of fine wines. Her mother and generations of women before her worked as grape pickers, part of the Indigenous peoples of the wine-producing region. In her community, wine often carried negative connotations due to its adverse social impact.

Despite limited means, Belinda's family placed significant emphasis on education. She and her siblings earned academic scholarships, opening doors beyond the factory jobs their father had known. Initially pursuing Chemical Engineering and Food Technology in the early 2000s, Belinda's path took an unexpected turn during the transformative period following the fall of Apartheid.

A Taste of Destiny

Belinda's winemaking journey began unexpectedly during her role as a laboratory analyst. A pivotal moment when winemaker Graham Weerts handed her a glass of fermenting Chardonnay—a taste she had never experienced before. This simple act changed her world, setting her on a path of taste, travel, and discovery. It kindled a deep love for the science, nature, and art of winemaking.

Breaking Barriers in a Male-Dominated Industry

As a female winemaker in South Africa in the mid-2000s, Belinda faced unique challenges in a traditionally male-dominated industry. Overcoming gender-related biases required consistently demonstrating her expertise and passion. She remained curious and actively engaged in the industry through networking, mentorship opportunities, and participating in wine events.

Despite these hurdles, Belinda takes pride in contributing to the positive shift towards inclusivity within the South African winemaking community. She notes that while progress has been made, gender equity and diversity in the wine sector have yet to achieve equilibrium.

From South Africa to Australia: A New Chapter

Belinda's winemaking journey took an international turn in 2005 when she accepted a vintage intern position in Sonoma, California. This experience sparked her interest in exploring other wine-producing regions, leading her to New Zealand and eventually back to South Africa as an assistant winemaker.

In 2010, Belinda made the life-changing decision to relocate to Australia, following both her heart and her passion for wine. The move presented new challenges as she worked to re-establish herself in a new wine region. She began her career as a cellar hand in the Barossa Valley and Langhorne Creek before taking on a role in wine regulation for Wine Australia.

Contrasting Wine Landscapes

Belinda's unique perspective has allowed her to observe several key differences between the South African and Australian wine industries. The sheer size and vastness of the Australian wine landscape dwarfs that of South Africa. For instance, the distance from Lamberts Bay to Cape Agulhas in South Africa is just over 400 km, whereas the distance from Margaret River to the Hunter Valley in Australia is about 4,000 km.

Another striking contrast is the level of mechanisation. Australian vineyards and wineries are far more mechanised compared to South Africa's labour-intensive industry. These differences reflect not only technological advancements but also the economic and social structures of the two countries.

Coming from a country where the wine industry was undergoing a transformative phase, Belinda immediately noticed the apparent lack of diversity among people in Australia's industry. This observation would later influence her approach to winemaking and her role in the Australian wine community.

The Birth of The Cutting

In 2018, Belinda and her partner Daniel established The Cutting as a passion project. By 2021, it grew to the point where Belinda assumed the full-time role of managing the winery and vineyard. The Cutting quickly gained recognition for its commitment to sustainability and respect for the land.

Sustainability: The Heart of The Cutting

At The Cutting, Belinda’s vision for sustainability goes far beyond a buzzword. Their solar-powered winery sits just 50 metres from the first row of Shiraz vines, minimising transportation needs. All fruit is handpicked, with grapes sourced from grower vineyards within a 10-kilometre radius, further reducing their carbon footprint.

In the vineyard, Belinda and her team use organic compost and straw mulch to improve soil health and reduce water evaporation. This practice became particularly crucial after they ran out of water in 2020. It was a stark reminder of the fragility of their environment and the importance of sustainable practices. Rather than be discouraged, they embraced it as a learning opportunity, changing their approach to meet the challenges of their environment, much like a vine reaching towards the sun. 

A Labour of Love and Respect for the Land

For Belinda, The Cutting is more than just a winery—it's a work of love and respect for the land and its history. Her humility is reflected in her acknowledgement of the Ngadjuri and Peramangk people as the traditional custodians of the land on which they farm, recognising their deep connection to the land on their wine labels.

In the winery, Belinda employs gentle techniques such as hand plunging, minimal use of pumps, basket pressing, and use of mainly seasoned French oak. The goal is to create wines that truly speak of the place where they were grown, with meticulous attention to detail at every step of the process.

Bringing a Unique Perspective to the Barossa Valley

As a woman of colour in the Barossa Valley wine community, Belinda brings a unique perspective and voice. She holds a deep respect for the Barossa community and its rich winemaking heritage, focussing on crafting premium wines from premium grapes. At the same time, she's not afraid to innovate, championing new styles such as a lighter, chilled Grenache and a single-vineyard Cinsault inspired by South African wines.

Drawing from her personal background, Belinda aims to make wine accessible to everyone, ensuring individuals from diverse backgrounds feel welcomed in the world of wine. She contributes to various regional wine shows and sustainability initiatives, bringing her international experience to the Barossa Valley. Perhaps most uniquely, Belinda contributes to the wine lexicon with flavours distinct to her roots, highlighting the benefits of diverse palates in the world of wine.

Award-Winning Wines with a Story

The Cutting's wines have earned many accolades, including trophies and awards for their Shiraz and gold medals for their Grenache. Each wine tells a story, not just of its terroir but of Belinda's journey. The Outlier range, consisting of Cinsault and old vine Grenache, features labels designed by Belinda's niece Mira, a Berlin-based artist. The design incorporates elements of Belinda's South African roots, including a zebra and giraffe hidden in the cheeks of a face.

The Shiraz label, on the other hand, reflects the soil profile of their vineyard, taken from The Cutting itself—a visible cut on Stonewell Road where their vineyard is located. This label not only represents the wine's origin but also pays homage to the unique geological features that contribute to its character.

Wisdom for Aspiring Winemakers

For young, aspiring winemakers, particularly those who may feel there are barriers to entering the industry, Belinda offers wisdom born from her own experiences. She encourages them to show up and be curious, reminding them that the wine industry, while rewarding, is not always glamorous. Much of a winemaker's time is spent cleaning, a testament to the attention to detail required in this craft.

Belinda emphasises that winemaking is a challenging profession, one that forces adaptation and evolution at the hands of Mother Nature. She advises aspiring winemakers to immerse themselves in every experience, to learn from each vintage, each fermentation, and each blend. Most importantly, she reminds them to have fun. "We are making wine," she says with a smile, "not splitting atoms!"

A Journey of Taste, Travel, and Discovery

Belinda van Eyssen's story is one of transformation—from a young girl in Mitchell's Plain to a respected winemaker in the Barossa Valley. Her journey has been marked by curiosity, perseverance, and a deep respect for the land and its fruits. Through her work at The Cutting, she continues to push boundaries, champion sustainability, and create wines that tell the story of their origin.

As she continues to make her mark on the Australian wine industry, Belinda van Eyssen stands as an inspiration to aspiring winemakers everywhere, proving that with passion, hard work, and an open mind, it's possible to turn a single sip of fermenting Chardonnay into a lifelong journey of taste, travel, and discovery. Her story reminds us that excellent wine is more than just what's in the bottle—it's a reflection of the land, the people, and the rich tapestry of experiences that go into every vintage.

Thank you, Belinda, for sharing your remarkable journey with us. And Priscilla Hennekam, we appreciate your role in bringing us together.

Did you miss last week’s newsletter? Last week on Winemakers On Fire, we uncorked the inspiring story of Igor Kucic, the passionate force behind Iggy Wines. From his humble beginnings in Slovenia to becoming a rising star in Australia's Barossa Valley, Igor's journey is a testament to the power of dreams and determination. Read.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.