Winemakers On Fire, Issue #90

Welcome to this week's edition of Winemakers On Fire! 

As organic wine surges globally, with sales growing from 29 to 71 million cases in just a decade, we're diving deep into the story of one of South Africa's most visionary pioneers. And what perfect timing—as Johan Reyneke celebrates another trip around the sun this week, we explore how this philosopher-turned-winemaker has been quietly revolutionising sustainable viticulture since the 1990s. 

His journey from maverick to mainstream success isn't just about great wine—it's a masterclass in turning principles into profit while nurturing both land and community.

Keep reading to discover how this surfing philosopher is helping reshape the future of South African wine. 

“The dream of any serious winemaker is to find a place of perfect position, where the soil composition is special and the climate just right. The idea is then to express these characteristics in the grapes and so produce a wine that uniquely reflects the site.”

Let’s dive in!

Philosophy, Farming, and the Future: Johan Reyneke's Quest for Sustainable Winemaking

The global organic wine industry stands at a pivotal moment. With a current market size of $10.80 billion (2023) and projected growth to $21.48 billion by 2030, organic wine is rapidly shifting from a niche category to a mainstream phenomenon. This transformation is particularly evident in the dramatic increase in sales volume—from 29 million cases in 2012 to 71 million cases in 2022, marking a remarkable 145% rise.

The drivers behind this growth reflect broader societal shifts in consumer consciousness. Health-aware consumers are increasingly concerned about pesticide use and artificial additives in conventional wines, while growing environmental awareness is pushing buyers toward sustainable agricultural practices. This movement is particularly strong among millennials, who are prioritising organic and natural products that align with their values of health, sustainability, and ethical consumption. 

The trend is further accelerated by innovations in minimal-intervention winemaking techniques, which are producing unique flavour profiles that attract consumers seeking authentic wine experiences. It's no longer just about what's in the glass—it's about the impact of each purchase decision on both personal and planetary health.

In South Africa, this global movement is taking root in unique ways. While organic production currently represents less than 1% of the country's total wine output, with only two to three dozen certified organic wineries, the September 2024 formation of Organic Wines South Africa (OWSA) marks a significant milestone. This new association aims to combat greenwashing and provide authentic pathways for producers embracing sustainable practices.

Against this backdrop of industry transformation, few voices speak with more authority than Johan Reyneke, a philosopher-turned-winemaker who has been championing biodynamic practices since the early 1990s. His journey from maverick to mainstream success offers valuable insights into the future of sustainable winemaking in South Africa and beyond.

A Philosopher in the Vineyard

Johan Reyneke isn't your typical winemaker. With a philosophy degree from Stellenbosch University rather than the expected viticulture and oenology credentials, he brings a refreshingly different perspective to South African wine. "In a way I feel like a degree in Viticulture and Oenology would have been very helpful in my journey thus far, but studying philosophy has enabled me to look at things from a very different perspective," he reflects. This unconventional background has shaped his unique approach to winemaking, allowing him to challenge traditional viticultural paradigms and forge new paths in sustainable farming.

Beyond the Bottle: A Holistic Vision

"Sustainability is a three-legged chair," Reyneke explains, "and entails looking after nature, people, and money. We can unfortunately neglect looking after nature and people for longer, but eventually things do fall apart if we don't." This isn't just philosophical musing—it's a practical framework that shapes every aspect of his operation. At Reyneke Wines, sustainability isn't a marketing buzzword; it's the foundation of a business model that recognises the interconnected relationship between environmental stewardship and human well-being.

The Evolution of a Pioneer

Reyneke's journey into sustainable viticulture began with a simple premise. "Initially it wasn't about biodynamics but about farming without poison or harmful chemicals," he recalls. "Today it's about using the farm to do something positive about climate change and biodiversity loss. Biodynamics just happens to be a very suitable vehicle for achieving all the above." His biggest challenges were bridging the gap between knowledge and understanding with experience and healing the soil so that the biodynamic system could flourish.

Breaking Down Barriers

One of the biggest misconceptions Reyneke faces is the perception of biodynamic farming as "unscientific and the so-called voodoo of viticulture." He approaches this scepticism with characteristic thoughtfulness: "It comes from a time when our ancestors had a spiritual understanding of farming, and today, we live in an era where we have a scientific understanding of farming. However, biodynamics can make sense in both paradigms, and it's up to us to choose the path we're most comfortable with."

The Cornerstone of Community

The Cornerstone Project exemplifies Reyneke's commitment to social sustainability. This innovative initiative sends farm workers' children to university and helps families afford their first homes. "People are not only employees of the business but also individuals in their own right, and this needs to be respected," he emphasizes. "To have good wine, one needs good grapes, and to have good grapes, one needs good people and the relationships that go with it."

Terroir and Triumph

The exceptional quality of Reyneke's wines speaks to the success of his approach. His 2021 Reserve Red and 2022 Reserve White scored 97 and 96 points, respectively, in Tim Atkin's 2024 South Africa Special Report. "Our vineyards are on the granite slopes of the Polkadraai hills just outside Stellenbosch," he explains. "These are unique soils with unique aspects and elevations very different from the rest of Stellenbosch. I think our Reserve Red '21 and Reserve White '22 showcased the potential of Polkadraai grapes very well."

Leading the Organic Movement

As a founding member of Organic Wines South Africa (OWSA), Reyneke is helping to create an authentic space for sustainable wine production. "Organic Wines of South Africa is there to help both farmers and consumers find an authentic home in a world fraught with greenwashing," he states. "OWSA has a tiered system that accommodates different levels of sustainability but in a transparent and third-party-endorsed way. We really do use our farms to care for nature and people by fostering healthy environments for both to live and work in."

The Philosophy of Balance

When it comes to promoting biodynamic practices, Reyneke takes a measured approach. "Reality is complex, and there is no single system that can possibly encapsulate all of it," he observes. "One must therefore never confuse a system with reality, but a system (like biodynamics) does go a long and collective way of garnering knowledge that can be made available to all interested parties."

Surfing the Waves of Change

Described as "laid-back and ebullient"—a characteristic he attributes with a laugh to "a lifetime of surfing"—Reyneke combines this relaxed demeanour with an unwavering commitment to his principles. "To persevere even in challenging times," he reflects, "one must do things in a way that is aligned with one's own belief system and inner self. At least this is what keeps me dedicated when the going gets tough."

Looking to the Future

Reyneke sees significant changes on the horizon for the wine industry. "I see generational changes in consumption patterns, and I believe that production methods will follow," he predicts. "Younger consumers value people over profit and the sustainability of all things' nature. Ignore them at your peril." His early adoption of biodynamic practices wasn't just environmentally sound—it was prescient.

In the end, Johan Reyneke's story is about more than wine. It's about reimagining what's possible when we approach farming as a holistic endeavour that nurtures both land and community. Through OWSA's mentorship programs and his own example, he's helping to create a future where excellence in winemaking goes hand in hand with environmental and social responsibility. His success proves that this vision isn't just philosophical idealism—it's a practical path forward for the wine industry.

Here's what you missed last week...

Just as Christmas brings people together, Priscilla Hennekam is bridging the divide between wine enthusiasts and industry, one drop of Sangiovese at a time. With over 10,000 subscribers across the globe, Hennekam is serving up a refreshing approach to wine appreciation, challenging traditional industry practices, and reimagining wine as a universal connector.

In this special Christmas edition, Hennekam's insights range from AI-powered personalisation to demystifying wine’s “ivory tower” status. Get ready to warm up your taste buds, tickle your intellectual curiosity, and ignite your festive spirit as we crack open a bottle of change with Priscilla Hennekam. Cheers to the future of wine!

“The sacred cow I’m most eager to sacrifice is the obsession with tradition as the ultimate marker of quality and authenticity. In the wine world, tradition often becomes a crutch, stifling creativity and innovation in favour of preserving the status quo. While respecting history is important, clinging to it blindly limits the industry’s ability to adapt to modern consumers who crave connection, relevance, and inclusivity.” 

Get ready to be inspired.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.