Winemakers On Fire, Issue #91

Welcome to this week's edition of Winemakers On Fire! 

When you've spent nearly a quarter-century crafting wines from the world's oldest commercial Pinotage vineyard, you learn to listen to what the vines are telling you. This week, we sit down with Wilhelm Kritzinger of Bellevue Estate, whose journey from food scientist to celebrated winemaker embodies the perfect blend of scientific precision and artisanal craft.

Under his stewardship, Bellevue's historic 1953 Pinotage vineyard continues to produce some of South Africa's most elegant and acclaimed wines. From multiple Platter 5-star ratings to his innovative vision for the future, Wilhelm's story is a masterclass in the art of minimal intervention and maximum expression.

“I have had the luxury of working with some of the world's oldest Pinotage vines, a luxury that is afforded to only a handful of winemakers.”

Let’s dive in!

Wilhelm Kritzinger: A Legacy of Elegance at Bellevue Estate

In 1953, when P.K. Morkel planted Pinotage vines at Bellevue Estate, he couldn't have known he was making viticultural history. His bold decision to plant this experimental crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault would lead to Bellevue producing the world's first commercially bottled Pinotage, and by 1959, the estate was already turning heads by claiming the General Smuts Trophy for South Africa's best young wine.

Today, those same vines still flourish under the meticulous care of Wilhelm Kritzinger, who has spent 24 vintages as cellarmaster at this iconic Stellenbosch estate. His guardianship of South Africa's oldest commercial Pinotage vineyard has elevated Bellevue's wines to new heights, earning multiple Platter 5-star ratings and international acclaim. It's a story that perfectly embodies the intersection of innovation and tradition that defines South African wine.

From Lab Coat to Wine Boots: A Journey Through Time and Terroir

After 24 vintages at Bellevue Estate, Wilhelm Kritzinger has developed an intimate understanding of the land that goes far beyond mere winemaking. His journey, which began with a background in food science, was sparked by a deep fascination with wine's unique ability to evolve over decades, influenced by countless variables from microclimate to barrel aging. This scientific foundation has proved invaluable, providing him with the precise understanding of chemistry and microbiology needed to master the art of fermentation and maturation.

The Whispers of Ancient Vines: Guarding Living History

At Bellevue, Kritzinger has the rare privilege of working with some of the world's oldest Pinotage vines, planted in 1953. These venerable plants have become both his teachers and his legacy. "Even these old vines have further matured during the last 23 years," he reflects, explaining how he's had to gradually adapt his winemaking approach to protect and enhance their increasingly delicate fruit character. This journey has taught him two profound lessons: patience, as these vines take their time to achieve optimal ripeness, and respect for their remarkable resilience in challenging conditions.

Nature's Dance: The Art of Minimal Intervention

Kritzinger's winemaking philosophy centres on allowing the unique terroir of the Bottelary Hills to express itself naturally. His approach involves longer cold soaking periods, lower yeast dosages (particularly with Pinotage), and carefully managed fermentations that capture the fruit's true character. "My deep understanding of Bellevue's fruit allows me to steer the wines naturally, letting them express their authentic direction rather than imposing a preconceived style," he explains.

Stars in Their Eyes: A Year of Triumphs

2024 has been a stellar year for Bellevue Estate, with both their 1953 Pinotage and Reserve Collection Pinotage receiving coveted 5-star Platter ratings. Six other wines achieved impressive 4.5-star ratings, including their Cabernet Sauvignon, two vintages of Cabernet Franc, 1952 Heritage Cinsault, and Reserve Collection Chenin Blanc. The estate's maiden vintage Cabernet Franc clinched the Michelangelo Trophy, marking an auspicious start for this new project.

Perhaps most significantly, Master of Wine Greg Sherwood's recent tasting of Bellevue's reserve and heritage wines resulted in exceptional scores, with two wines achieving 96 points. Sherwood described Bellevue as possessing "some of the oldest and most treasured old vine material of both Cinsault and Pinotage, yet still a bit of a 'best kept secret' in the wider SA wine trade."

Pinotage Chronicles: South Africa's Grape Revolution

As the custodian of South Africa's oldest commercial Pinotage vineyard, Kritzinger takes particular pride in this uniquely South African varietal. His approach to Pinotage is classical, aiming to produce elegant wines that respect the grape's heritage while showcasing its site-specific character. "Pinotage is not just about being 'better' but rather about being individualistic, different, and true to the lineage of its original roots," he asserts.

When asked about a hypothetical conversation with Professor A.I. Perold, Pinotage's creator, Kritzinger's eyes light up. "I'd love to discuss Pinotage's fascinating journey—a grape on a quest to find its own identity. From being the new kid on the block to navigating numerous stylistic detours, it has evolved into the multifaceted variety we know today," he muses. "I'd ask Professor Perold what his vision truly was... Did he imagine Pinotage achieving longevity in a bottle, international recognition, or becoming a cornerstone of South African winemaking?"

Breaking the Mould: Where Tradition Meets Tomorrow

Kritzinger's creative spirit shines when discussing experimental directions for Pinotage. He envisions an innovative blend that would celebrate "like-minded" varietals, combining Stellenbosch Pinotage with Cinsault from its historical roots, cool-climate Pinot Noir from Hemel-en-Aarde, and Grenache from the rugged Piekenierskloof. This combination would showcase Pinotage's versatility while weaving together "the vibrancy of red fruit, delicate aromatics, and a refined, silky texture," creating a fresh, boundary-pushing expression that still chases elegance.

The Vineyard Whisperer: Wilhelm Kritzinger’s Secret Weapon

When asked about his superpower, Kritzinger points to his ability to connect all the dots throughout the winemaking journey. "Combining intuition with years of experience, guiding the wine from grape to bottle—steering it through a smooth fermentation, selecting the right barrels during maturation, and ensuring every decision captures a true sense of people and place," he explains. The result is balanced, elegant wines that carry his personal signature—faithful expressions of what he envisioned they could become.

Crystal Dreams: The Quest for Perfect Pinotage

Looking to the future, Kritzinger harbours a dream of developing a Pinotage-specific wine glass that truly honours and enhances the variety's delicate aromas and nuances. While previous attempts with Riedel didn't materialise due to production requirements, he continues to advocate for this vision. In the meantime, he recommends specific glasses that complement Pinotage's profile, including the Riedel Veloce Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo glass and the Spiegelau La Cantina Burgundy glass.

Crafting Tomorrow's Classics: A Legacy in the Making

After nearly a quarter-century at Bellevue, Kritzinger has established himself as a true guardian of South African wine heritage. His stewardship of these historic vines and commitment to expressing their true character has positioned Bellevue Estate as a beacon of South African wine heritage, producing wines that speak eloquently of their origin while looking confidently to the future. Under his guidance, each vintage becomes not just a wine but a chapter in the continuing story of South African winemaking excellence.

Here's what you missed last week...

As organic wine surges globally, with sales growing from 29 to 71 million cases in just a decade, we're diving deep into the story of one of South Africa's most visionary pioneers. And what perfect timing—as Johan Reyneke celebrates another trip around the sun this week, we explore how this philosopher-turned-winemaker has been quietly revolutionising sustainable viticulture since the 1990s. 

His journey from maverick to mainstream success isn't just about great wine—it's a masterclass in turning principles into profit while nurturing both land and community.

Keep reading to discover how this surfing philosopher is helping reshape the future of South African wine. 

“The dream of any serious winemaker is to find a place of perfect position, where the soil composition is special and the climate just right. The idea is then to express these characteristics in the grapes and so produce a wine that uniquely reflects the site.”

Get ready to be inspired.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.