Winemakers On Fire, Issue #93

Welcome to this week's edition of Winemakers On Fire! 

Meet Riandri Visser, the winemaker who's turning heads at Cape Point Vineyards by painting outside the boundaries of conventional winemaking. With a graphic designer's eye and an innovator's spirit, she's revolutionising South African Sauvignon Blanc, including a groundbreaking addition of Sauvignon Gris to the prestigious Isliedh blend.

From her humble beginnings as a forklift driver to becoming a globe-trotting winemaker splitting time between the Cape and Sancerre, Visser's story is one of passion, precision, and pushing possibilities. Her artistic approach is paying off—with stellar ratings from Tim Atkin MW and James Suckling cementing her place among South Africa's most exciting winemaking talents.

"Sometimes, you need more paint for the desired effect; sometimes, you're unsure, and then there are moments when everything aligns to create a once-in-a-lifetime masterpiece.”

Let’s dive in!

The Art of Winemaking: How Riandri Visser is Painting New Possibilities at Cape Point Vineyards

At Cape Point Vineyards, Riandri Visser approaches winemaking with an artist's eye and a scientist's precision. Drawing from her background in graphic design, she sees each vintage of Sauvignon Blanc as a blank canvas awaiting its story. What makes her perspective particularly fascinating is how she's revolutionising South African wine, notably by introducing Sauvignon Gris to the iconic Isliedh blend—a first for the country.

But it's not just about innovation. Visser's journey from forklift driver to head winemaker, coupled with her dual-hemisphere experience in South Africa and Sancerre, has shaped a unique winemaking philosophy. At Cape Point's distinctive terroir, where the Atlantic Ocean meets mountain ranges, she crafts wines that challenge conventions while respecting tradition. Her latest vintages, garnering impressive scores from renowned critics like Tim Atkin MW and James Suckling, prove that sometimes the most beautiful masterpieces come from daring to paint outside the lines.

Where Art Meets Wine

For Riandri Visser, head winemaker at Cape Point Vineyards, creating wine is akin to painting a masterpiece. With a background in graphic design, she sees Sauvignon Blanc as her blank canvas, where each winemaking decision represents a careful brushstroke. "Sometimes, you need more paint for the desired effect; sometimes, you're unsure, and then there are moments when everything aligns to create a once-in-a-lifetime masterpiece," she reflects. "Making Sauvignon Blanc is easy," she notes, "but creating a wine that doesn't immediately tell you it's a Sauvignon Blanc—that's the challenge."

A Journey of Discovery

Visser's path to becoming one of South Africa's most innovative winemakers began unexpectedly—as a forklift driver at Tokara during the 2014 harvest under Miles Mossop. Her eagerness to learn and willingness to work hard soon led her to Cape Point Vineyards, where she spent two transformative years as Duncan Savage's assistant. "I will always remain grateful," she says of her time with Savage. "I fell in love with Sauvignon, and the opportunities at Cape Point Vineyards shaped me into who I am today. I learnt to challenge myself, focus on quality, and pay attention to detail."

The Sauvignon Blanc Love Affair

Her passion for Sauvignon Blanc runs so deep that it even extends to her pets—her rescue dog, Sauvignon, and cats Sancerre and Fumé. But it's in the vineyards where this passion truly comes alive. Cape Point's unique terroir, shaped by the mountain range and Atlantic Ocean, presents both challenges and opportunities.

"Our yields are extremely low, our bunches and berries are tiny, and we have this touch of salt on the skin, reminding you of a day at the beach," Visser explains. "I want the wines to express the terroir, the vintage, and the purity of the fruit as if we are capturing a moment in time that will one day become a moment in someone else's life when they open the bottle."

Breaking New Ground with Isliedh

Visser's innovative spirit shines through in her groundbreaking addition of Sauvignon Gris to the flagship Isliedh blend—a first for South Africa. "Isliedh is one of South Africa's iconic white wines. It challenges me every year. When you work with a wine like this, there is no room for error," she emphasises. The decision to incorporate Sauvignon Gris came after years of experimentation. "I initially wanted to bottle the Sauvignon Gris separately, but when blending the 2022 Isliedh, it was as if the Sauvignon Gris just added a touch of perfume to the Sauvignon Blanc. It was a bold decision, but I've known Isliedh for ten years and felt it was the right decision, as if I were making the final brush stroke."

This artistic intuition has paid off handsomely. The 2022 vintage received 96 points from Tim Atkin MW, matching the score of her first vintage as head winemaker in 2017. More recently, the 2023 Isliedh earned a place among James Suckling's Top 100 Wines of South Africa for 2024 with 93 points.

The French Connection

Since 2019, Visser has been splitting her time between South Africa and France, particularly in Sancerre. This dual-hemisphere experience has deepened her understanding of Sauvignon Blanc and boosted her confidence to push boundaries. "The terroir in Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, and Coteaux du Giennois differs significantly from Cape Point Vineyards," she notes. "Sauvignon Blanc thrives in the right location, but that doesn't permit you to sit back and relax."

A Family Affair

The winery has become a family venture, with Visser's sister Anzette joining the winemaking team. Initially helping during the 2020 lockdown, Anzette, who studied architectural technology, has now become an integral part of the operation and even travels to Sancerre for harvests. This partnership has added another layer of precision and creativity to Cape Point's wines.

Expanding Horizons

While Cape Point Vineyards remains primarily focused on white wines, Visser has recently introduced a Bordeaux-style red blend to the portfolio. "We have always been a white wine-focused winery, and we will remain so," she explains, "but South Africa also has a rich culture of cooking with fire, and people often like to have a little bit of red next to the fire."

Her approach to red winemaking shows interesting parallels to her white wine techniques: "My white winemaking approach is not textbook style. I have been making various red cultivars over the years, and it sometimes reminds me of making a Sauvignon Blanc because we destem, crush, and cold-soak our reds with some SO2, while with many of our Sauvignon Blanc wines, we don't do that."

Looking to the Future

The winery is replanting blocks with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, and more Sauvignon Gris. Exciting projects on the horizon include a single varietal Sauvignon Gris, a skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, and an amphora Sauvignon Blanc. "I am always excited to work with Cape Point fruit," Visser enthuses, her artistic spirit evident in every new venture.

The Art of Balance

When asked about crafting complex wines like the Isliedh, Visser draws a culinary parallel: "It's similar to cooking; you find harmony by combining different ingredients. Good ingredients don't necessarily guarantee a good meal—it takes a skilled cook to find the perfect balance and know when to add a pinch of salt without overpowering but enhancing and counteracting other flavours."

This metaphor perfectly encapsulates Visser's approach to winemaking—thoughtful, precise, and always with an eye toward creating something greater than the sum of its parts. After a decade at Cape Point Vineyards, her emotional connection to the wines remains strong, and each accolade brings joy not just for the recognition but as validation of countless hours invested in her craft.

A Fresh Look at Wine's Deeper Mysteries

Ever wondered what happens when you blend ancient wisdom with wine knowledge? Dutch wine sage Corné van Nijhuis has done just that in his fascinating new book "Vinosophy—Cracking the Myths about Wine." As the world's first self-proclaimed Vinosopher, Corné takes us on an enlightening journey that's part wine exploration, part philosophical adventure.

This isn't your typical wine book—it's a mind-bending exploration that challenges everything we think we know about wine. Corné masterfully weaves together modern wine science with esoteric knowledge, asking us to look beyond what's in our glass and consider wine as a mirror to the universe itself. 

Whether you're a curious wine professional or a philosophical wine lover, this book will transform your perspective on wine forever. It's like having a deep, thought-provoking conversation with a brilliant friend over a glass of your favourite vintage. Highly recommended if you're looking for a contrarian view on wine!

Available from Amazon.

Here's what you missed last week...

From making wine in a garage in Croatia to crafting award-winning Pinot Noir in Marlborough, Eva Pemper's journey is anything but ordinary. This week's Winemakers On Fire spotlights a vintner whose story burns bright with resilience, passion, and cross-continental flair.

After clinching a Master Medal at the Global Masters Pinot Noir 2024 awards, Pemper is blazing new trails in New Zealand while honouring her family's winemaking legacy. Join us as we uncork the remarkable tale of a winemaker who turned adversity into excellence, one vintage at a time.

"My parents are my inspiration. They are very talented and passionate winemakers. Their love for crafting wine immersed me, on a daily basis, in something that sparked a passion  and led me to the path I am on now."

Get ready to be inspired.

Until next Tuesday, keep your glass full and your taste buds curious.